Return Home

In 1998, online journals were not common at all.  This journal was originally hosted on
Trailplace. My Appalachian Trail journal was not the  first online hiking journal, but I would not be
surpised if it was one the first fifty (or less)  hiking journals to be published online. Eight years later, online
hiking journals are much more common.

Paul Magnanti’s 1998 Appalachian Trail Thru-Hike

Final Thoughts Before Leaving Rhode Island

February 22~ Several thoughts are my mind before I depart for Springer. Anxiety, excitement, the disbelief that
this adventure is really happening. In a few short days, I will be on top of Springer mountain, gazing northward
knowing that Katahdin is 2160.7 miles away. Many steps are between these two points. Who knows what adventures
will come from this walk in the woods. The white blazes starting from Springer lead not only a path northward,
but also to experiences and sights that been in my life before. I will travel on this path, savoring every moment.

Another overwhelming thought is gratitude. I could not even attempt my of hike of this trail if it was not for all
the people who have helped me in one way or another. With no further ado, I want to thank the following people:

WINGFOOT: Trailplace and the lists have been a direct inspiration for my hike. Thanks for the hard work

AT-L,ATML,AT98 MAILING LISTS The support, advice, humor and best wishes from all the people in the “hiker family”
has been great.  I would not even be remotely prepared, mentally or physically, if it were not for these fine people.

STAFF AT KENT HOSPITAL More than co-workers, the staff was an extended family of sorts for eight years. A special thanks goes
 to the staff  of Surgical Services, AKA my other moms. (How many co-workers tell you to dress warm and bring plenty of food on
hiking trips AND want you to  get their approval of anyone you date?!?!?!

JOHN GORDON John is bravely attempting to decipher my handwriting so he can transcribe my journal. For that, he deserves a medal
 to go with my thankyou!

FRIENDS Couldn’t ask for a better bunch of people to grab a beer with and to discuss the latest happenings in our lives. I’ll miss you guys.
See you in Maine!

FAMILY Despite all their worries, they support me for doing this hike. They know how much it means to me, and behind me in every way they can be.
What more can I ask? Thank you! 

“I woke up this morning, feeling around for my shoes, Know about that, I got these old walking blues” --Robert Johnson, WALKING BLUES

Mile Post 7.7 ~ Hawk Mtn. Shelter

February 28 ~ Beautiful day today! The weather was a perfect start for a

thru-hike of the AT. Sunny, in the sixties, blue skies. After the requisite

summit photos on Springer, I hiked to the shelter. Let me tell you, the view

from the privy gives a whole new meaning to the phrase "Royal Throne Room"!

A pleasent surprise today was meeting Father Time and Mother Nature. This

couple is doing the trail, and after talking to them for a while I realized

I had met them in Vermont when I did the LT last summer. Small world! Well

off to bed, and a new day of hiking in the AM.-Paul

Mile Post 16.1 ~ Gooch Gap Shelter

March 1 ~ Today was a rollercoaster ride on the AT. To summarize: down into

a gap, up a mountain, into another gap, up yet another mountain, etc.

Finally a steep .2 mile climb to the shelter! Needless to say, I did not

feel like pushing on to the next shelter 10.6 miles away. Good thing, come

to find out the shelter is not built yet anyways. Despite my grousing, it

was another beautiful day. Tunnels were formed by rhododendrons, and the

sunlight reflecting on the creeks was just magnificent. Consider these

reasons #236 and #237 to do a thru-hike.-Paul

Mile Post 30.7 ~ Neels Gap

March 2 ~ One of the caveats about hiking the AT is to expect the

unexpected. Today the unexpected happened. Here I am almost 2000 miles from

my home in Rhode Island, and it snows! Perhaps my New England perspective

pictures a sunny South. Intellectually I know this is not true, but I still

found a snow squall on the summit of Blood Mountain to be a bit of a

surprise. So, after almost 15 miles of hiking I had two choices A)Hike

another mile or so past Neels Gap and pitch a tent in the snow or B)Split

the cost of a cabin at Goose Creek, do my laundry, and have a nice hot

shower. For once, my common sense won out. Now, I write this journal in a

warm cabin instead of a cold tent. A bit of a splurge, but sometimes you

have to. Heck, I am on an extended vacation, might as well enjoy it. Tonight

I met my fellow AT98er, Cricket. Pleasant woman to talk to. This was also my

third night spent bunking with PackRat. This man knows more about gear than

most outfitters! Still, great guy to talk to and adds color to my hike.-Paul

Mile Post 41.4 ~ Low Gap Shelter

March 3 ~ {Sung to the tune of Winter Wonderland} Hiking on the AT while

it's snowing, Wearing fleece and balaclavas, Having a real fine time, Hiking

on the AT winter wonderland. Look, it's sunny in the valley, Why is it still

snowing? Turning a few shades of blue, Hiking on this AT winter wonderland.

Listen to the wind howling, The temp is in the mid twenties, Eating some

mac-n-cheese, Trying to stay warm in this shelter on the AT winter

wonderland. Off to my sleeping bag, Rated to twenty, Wearing all my clothes,

Hoping I don't turn into a popsicle on the AT winter wonderland.-Paul

Mile Post 56.2 ~ Tray Mtn. Shelter

March 4 ~ Well, I did not freeze last night. Surprisingly I was quite

toasty. Feathered Friends makes great bags. Today started off less than

optimal, it was in the mid-twenties with snow! Egads, I hate this white

stuff. After descending into Unicoi Gap, the sun came out, and the

temperature rose into the fifties. The weather gods were again smiling on

me! The climb down Rocky Mountain was absolutely stunning. The "oohs" and

"ahhs" were coming quite frequently from me. But the views from Tray

Mountain were even better! Coming into the Tray Mountain Shelter I saw Ron &

Cheryl the "Solemates". It was great seeing these people. I also met "Orange

Slice" the first thru-hiker I have met that is about my age. A final

surprise was the trail magic left by Gabriel. He left several bags of fresh

fruit and Coleman fuel in the shelter. This fine day ended with the group of

us talking around a campfire. Great hiking, fine weather, good company, and

trail magic. Life truly does not get better than this.-Paul

Mile Post 66.8 ~ Dick's Creek Gap/Blueberry Patch

March 5 ~ A foggy day on the AT. The fog and the rhododendrons give the

trail an almost magical quality. There is a certain sound to the forest when

the fog is out that just cannot be described in words. I certainly did not

get the views that I had yesterday, but pleasures more subtle were just as

abundant. Now, here I am at the Blueberry Patch, waiting for my pizza made

on homemade bread. Pretty good day here in AT land.-Paul

Mile Post 78.4 ~ Muskrat Creek Shelter

March 6 ~ The Blueberry Patch is a special place. Gary and Lennie Poteat

have given their hostel a family feeling. Their love and caring for the

hiking community gave all of us a much needed boost for the 12 miles to this

shelter. The hiking today was quite difficult. I thought the climb up Bly

Gap would never end! Luckily, Jeremy (a great guy I met at the Blueberry

Patch) and I hit the NC/GA state line before the hike up this gap and

received an emotional charge from reaching this milestone. The hiking today

was again foggy. Jeremy thinks it looks like something out of the Hobbit.

Best description I have heard yet of hiking in the fog. Another milestone of

sorts happened today. I was informed that since I have hiked with my hiking

stick for three seasons, it should have a name. The hiking stick is now

named "Merlin" by Jeremy. Merlin has a purple top, and was named in this

mystical looking fog. Good name for my favorite piece of gear.-Paul

Mile Post 91.1 ~ Carter Gap Shelter

March 7 ~ Rain was the order of the day. No views, no breaks in the fog, no

let-up. Just cold, wet, rain. There is a plus side to a rainy day. The rain

seems to make it easier to do some deep thinking. Between the solitude of my

first day hiking alone, and the rain, all I did was think. Where am I headed

in life? What do I hope to get out of this hike? Now I sit in Carter Gap

Shelter, listening to the rain rhythmically pound on the roof. I am by

myself tonight, a rarity on the AT. Guess it will be a night of deep

thinking as well.-Paul

Mile Post 104.0 ~ Rainbow Springs Camp Ground

March 8 ~ I am beginning to think that the sun is some mythological figure

people from Arizona only see. There is an adage of "No Rain, No Maine", but

does that mean no sun at all?! On the plus side, I am making good progress,

steadily plugging along. A real treat was talking to some weekend campers at

Rock Gap Shelter. This couple was on their first backpacking trip, and

seemed quite enthused over it. Possible future thru-hikers? Now I am at

Rainbow Springs. It is raining quite hard. Any day now that "Annie" song

will come true!-Paul

Mile Post 122.7 ~ Cold Spring Shelter

March 9 ~ Long, snowy day today. I had a late start from Wallace Gap (9:00

AM), so I did not arrive here until six o'clock. Just enough time to set up

my tent and cook dinner before the sun set. Looks like another cold night.

But, give me a hot meal, and I'm good to go. An extra Snickers also does

wonders!-Paul

Mile Post 134.3 ~ Nantahala Outdoor Center

March 10 ~ Winter camping has two faces. The first face is the one of dread.

Packing a tent that has had two inches of snow on it, thawing out the

Nalgene bottles, putting on boots that are a bit too stiff. The other face

is the one that shows freshly fallen snow on the ground, covering everything

as if it were a blanket. The way the ice hangs off the branches, crystal

like. The sun even made a brief appearance today, showing distant peaks

capped with snow. It is now snowing again. I think I will take tomorrow off

to dry out my gear before the next push to the Smokies. A day of just

reading a book after all this fog, rain and snow sounds appealing.-Paul

Mile Post 134.3 ~ Nantahala Outdoor Center

March 11 ~ Several of the other thru-hikers opted to stay another day as

well. This area is having record lows, but a warming trend is expected for

the weekend, just in time for the Smokies. I think to stay here another day

is a wise idea, none of us want to become popsicles, thru-hiker

flavored.-Paul

Mile Post 141.3 ~ Sassafras Gap Shelter

March 12 ~ One long day of lollygagging. Well worth it. The sun finally came

out for a day of hiking. The weather is still a bit nippy. Instead of thru

hikers, I expect to find Nanook of the North. I hope the weather warms up a

bit before the Smokies.-Paul

Mile Post 150.5 ~ Brown Fork Gap Shelter

March 13 ~ I was in a bit of a funk today. I was in no mood to do the

additional mileage to Cable Gap Shelter. Instead it was a low mileage day.

Spent quite a bit of time at the Stecoah Gap picnic area enjoying the sun

and an excellent view of the snow covered Smokies. The Smokies look

beautiful. I only hope the snow is not that much of a problem trudging

through the trail.-Paul

Mile Post 163.0 ~ Fontana Dam Shelter

March 14 ~ If I was in a "funk" yesterday then today I was in the zone. The

miles seemed to go by effortlessly. The sun was warm on my face, my long

johns actually made me too warm, and to top it all off I had the way cool

Muddy Waters song "Got My Mojo Working" stuck in my head. This is also

looking to be the first night in a while that I do not have to wear fifteen

layers of clothes to stay warm! The record lows for this area are finally

coming to an end. Sun, warmer temps, and cool blues tunes stuck in my head.

Life really is good sometimes.-Paul

Mile Post 179.3 ~ Spence Field Shelter

March 15 ~ I knew today was off to a good start when an hour into my hike I

saw five deer running through the woods. I can see why the Smokies are so

popular. The views are stunning, especially in the various fields dotting

the mountains. Seeing prairies on the mountain tops is a new experience for

me, and one I enjoy. The con side to this popularity is that the trails are

severely eroded, making for one long slide on the mud. The shelter is quite

crowded tonight. No other thru-hikers however. Instead, just a nice group of

people doing what I am doing - enjoying the simple pleasures that these

mountains have to offer.-Paul

Mile Post 192.8 ~ Double Spring Gap Shelter

March 16 ~ The weather pattern has been figured out for this year's thru

hike. Two days of sun, followed by a week of slogging through mud, rain,

fog, and snow. But all is not lost, never underestimate the powers of mac

n'cheese liberally dosed with tabasco sauce. All is right with the world

once again. Tomorrow I am off to Clingman's Dome, and blue skies are now

appearing on the horizon. See, mac n'cheese really is powerful stuff.-Paul

Mile Post 203.6 ~ Pigeon Forge

March 17 ~ So much for the magical powers of mac n'cheese! The blue skies I

saw last night were merely a tease. I had my usual order today on the

Appalachian Trail Menu: rain, wind, fog, leather boots that double as

sponges. Just after the Mt. Collins Shelter some Spring Breakers asked me if

I was a thru-hiker and if I needed a lift into Gatlinburg. The first answer

was a yes. The second answer was an unplanned yes. So here I am splitting a

room, all gourged out on pizza, and dry! OK, not in my original plan. But I

think plans on the AT should have an elastic clause. Seems to work. P.S.

Happy St. Patrick's Day! Now, if only I had a Guinness...-Paul

Mile Post 214.0 ~ Peck's Corner Shelter

March 18 ~ I have an idea to make money. See, the AT is now the Appalachian

Stream because of all the rain and snow melt. So, I think that a pretty

penny could be earned by giving gondola rides! Wonder if the park rangers

have rules against people singing "O Sole Mio"? (See what a night in a

tourist trap can do to the brain. Turns it into the same consistency as

grits.)-Paul

Mile Post 227.0 ~ Cosby Knob Shelter

March 19 ~ Waking up this morning I saw a strange sight: a circular object

in the sky that was yellow. What could it be? A dim memory told me it was

the sun. What a concept! Yep, today was a great day in the Smokies. The

ridge walks revealed just how great this park is. The only fly in the

ointment was that snowshoes would have come in handy for three miles of the

trail. Walk, walk, sink in the snow was the pattern on and off. But, that is

O.K. Today proved spring is around the corner and that snow (hopefully) is a

fading memory.-Paul

Mile Post 235.2 ~ Mountain Moma's Kuntry Store

March 20 ~ A word to describe my time in the Smokies: WET. My last day

hiking in this park was in a thunderstorm. Was it a coincidence that as soon

as I stepped on the road that marks the Smokies boundary, the sun came out?

Maybe it is bad karma, maybe I lived in a desert in a past life, maybe I did

not sacrifice enough gorp to the great god of hiking, but whatever the

reason, rain seems to have a natural affinity for me on this hike. But that

is O.K. Excuse the thru-hiker cliche of always talking about food, but a

huge cheeseburger with fries seems to make everything just fine. To

paraphrase: "Rain do thy worst, for I have eaten cheeseburgers today!"-Paul

Mile Post 244.7 ~ Groundhog Creek Shelter

March 21 ~ It did not rain today. Snowed instead. Nothing like a little

variety in the weather, 'eh? But this weather has been inspiring. The word

frosty has been in my head all day. So with no further ado I present:

Frosty, the AT Thru-hiker Frosty, the AT Thru-hiker, had frozen Vibram

soles, with Goretex gear, and two Leki poles. There must have been some

magic in that Snickers bar he ate, For when he put it in his mouth, his

boots began to stomp on the ground! Down to the shelter with Lekis in his

hand, He yelled to the squirrels, catch me if you can! Frosty, the AT

Thru-hiker, now had frozen toes, with a blue nose, and shelter mice eating

his Cheerios.-Paul

Mile Post 255.9 ~ Roaring Fork Shelter

March 22 ~ Today did not start off well for me. Normally I am an early

riser, getting out of my bag at sun-up. Today was different, did not crawl

out of my bag until 8:30, and did not get on the trail until 10:00, not at

all like me. The cold weather and the gray skies just seem to take the spark

out of me. I was frustrated. When the hike was started I did not expect all

sunny days with an inspiring view every minute. On the other hand, I feel

cheated. The days when there are views number in the single digits. Yes,

depression was starting to set in. This trip was beginning to seem more like

a chore. Get up in the morning. hike my miles, eat dinner, go to bed,

repeat. I was missing my friends. I kept on thinking of how they were doing,

missing watching some movie with them while having a few cold ones. The snow

was stinging in my face, and my mind kept on wandering. How much I hate this

weather, that this does not seem like a hike, but an ordeal to put up with.

It was not a good day in AT land. But something happened. On Max Patch Bald

the clouds lifted just long enough to show peaks in the distance. On the way

down the bald, the sun came out, making skies that seem to be only that blue

after a snowstorm. It is funny how such little things can lift the spirit.

Today reminded me of why I am hiking the AT: whatever setbacks I might face,

and whatever good things happen, all will make up a journey I will not

forget. Each day is a thread in the tapestry that is my hike.-Paul

Mile Post 270.5 ~ Hot Springs, NC

March 23 ~ This town is a watershed for me. Any mileage I make after this

point will surpass my previous high for long distance hiking. More snow is

in the forecast for tonight and tomorrow. Not a problem. I need to take a

day off to do a few things in town anyways. Right now I am in a bit of a

vacuum. My hike has been more or less a solo one since the Smokies. Fellow

hikers either go at a quicker pace than myself or will go a little slower.

It is almost as if I am the only person on the trail. With all this foul

weather I find myself turning inward more. All the locked compartments in my

mind are becoming unlocked, making thoughts come into my head that I have

previously ignored. When a person does a thru-hike, many things seem to

happen. You lose weight, gain muscle in the legs, but more than anything, I

think a person becomes much more aware of who they are. At least, that is

the case for me.-Paul

Mile Post 270.5 ~ Hot Springs, NC

March 24 ~ Last night Viking and Obi showed up at the Inn. It was a great

reunion. I have been hiking on and off with these two since N.O.C. and it

was nice to see them again. Today was a perfect zero mileage day. After

going to the post office and the outfitters my largest challenge consisted

of reading a book and drinking a half gallon of milk while sitting on the

porch. It was nice not having to worry about rushing to work or being

somewhere at a certain time. Today, life consisted of turning a page and

taking a sip of milk. Simple pleasures are the best ones. In today's frantic

pace, it is hard to enjoy these pleasures. Too often it seems an emphasis is

placed on faster, more, bigger, better. The pace of this hike is

considerably slower. The world seems a much better place at two m.p.h. The

world also seems a better place when drinking milk, on a porch, on a lazy

Tuesday afternoon.-Paul

Mile Post 281.4 ~ Spring Mountain Shelter

March 25 ~ Hiking the AT is a bit like a 2000 plus mile version of "Cheers"

- everyone knows your name. Leaving Hot Springs was interesting. No sooner

was I checking out of the Inn when I heard "Magaroni!" Said a big hello to

Mr.Clean, then Exodus said "Hello!" etc. etc. Did not get out of town until

almost 11A.M. Meeting people I haven't seen in a few days was as if I were

seeing old friends again. The sense of community on the AT is strong and it

is amazing how the act of wearing a backpack and hiking several hundred

miles can unite people of such varied backgrounds in friendship.-Paul

Mile Post 296.8 ~ Jerry Cabin Shelter

March 26 ~ Early spring has a certain atmosphere to it. The way the woods

smell, the first appearance of insects, the way the sun seems just a bit

warmer and more intense on the face. Spring is a time of renewal. Winter is

finally releasing it's grip and life is abounding again. There were no

scenic vistas today, no dramatic waterfalls, no eyecatching flowers, just

all little things that add up to a satisfying hike. It seems like Mother

Nature is rewarding all the thru-hikers for the challenge it has thrown our

way. The onset of spring is much more satisfying than the last days of

winter.-Paul

Mile Post 311.5 ~ Hogback Ridge Shelter

March 27 ~ Now, at three hundred plus miles, I am beginning to feel

confident in my hiking abilities. Following the trail is much easier. That

is of course until I took a wrong turn today off the ridge and down a steep

side trail. I knew I was in trouble when Widge (Obi's dog) appeared.

Apparently Obi took the same trail I took! Climbing back onto the ridge via

this trail was certainly fun. Straining under my load, sweating up a storm,

and being in the direct sunlight I felt exactly like the name my friend,

Tim, has given me from previous backpacking trips: the Italian pack mule.

Nothing like being an experienced backpacker. Today was exceptional though.

Three days of sun in a row is a luxury that none of us are use to. It is a

luxury I hope we can get used to.-Paul

Mile Post 324.6 ~ Whistling Gap

March 28 ~ My guiding philosophy for this hike has been a quote by Louis

L'Amour: "The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast

and you miss all that you are traveling for." Today was proof that it is

good to slow down a bit, not to make a hike an endurance contest, and always

push for miles. My best view so far was today at Big Bald. Majestic is the

word that comes to mind. Being on a meadow with 360 degree views at five

thousand plus feet is one experience I will not forget. Well worth the one

and a half hour break to relax in the sun and enjoy this magnificent view.

Trail magic was in abundance today. Approaching Big Bald, two women on a day

hike asked me several questions about thru-hiking. I was more than happy to

answer. Then, after their questions, they offered me an apple. Fresh fruit

never tasted so good. The second example of trail magic today was on Big

Bald. A family on an outing gave Crash and myself ice cold Cokes and

homemade chocolate chip cookies. Yummy! All in all, a great afternoon. Now I

am at this tent site. I originally planned to do twenty miles today. But

would I have stopped and talked to the day hikers? Would I have had an hour

and a half lunch break on Big Bald? No. If I had done the twenty mile day,

none of these things would have happened. Seems the quote is true.-Paul

Mile Post 338.9 ~ Nolichucky Gorge Campground

March 29 ~ Pleasant ridge walking was the special of the day. Hiking on

gentle grades, on a bed of fragrant pine needles is one of the better ways

to spend a day. Seemed as if I was hiking 10 miles today instead of almost

15. The hostel here is a really laid back place and a pizza place from Erwin

delivered! Add a can of Mountain Dew from the vending machine, and things

are just fine. All this sun is having an unforseen side effect. Wearing a

bandana is giving me quite the funky tanline. Viking seems to think it makes

me look like a part of a strange cult. Hmmm, Church of the Divine A.T.

anyone?-Paul

Mile Post 341.8 ~ Curley Maple Gap Shelter

March 30 ~ Nothing like hiking a whopping 2.9 miles. Today was Viking's

birthday. [He turned 30, with twenty four years experience] So he was in the

mood for whitewater rafting. So Obi, Viking, Lorax and myself went rafting.

The Nolichucky goes through the deepest gorge east of the Mississippi, and

the scenery was spectacular. What a perfect day! Going through class IV

rapids was a thrill I did not expect to experience on a thru-hike. The four

plus hour diversion to take this trip was well worth the lost mileage.

Rafting on a scenic river and then hiking on a sunny day. The night sky is

crystal clear, and the conversation at the shelter is easy flowing. Another

great day in AT land.-Paul

Mile Post 353.9 ~ Cherry Gap Shelter

March 31 ~ Another day devoted lollygagging. The Beauty Spot truly lived up

to its name. Definitely a Kodak moment par excellence. These grassy meadows

on mountain peaks are something I will miss when I leave this area. They are

simply stunning. Early arrival at the shelter today. Arrived at three and

read a bit. Very relaxing day. I think we are all now official thru-hikers.

All our night time conversations bring up the topic of food at least once!

Beer is also a popular topic of conversation, or lack of I should say.

Thoreau and Muir we ain't.-Paul

Mile Post 362.6 ~ Clyde Smith Shelter

April 1 ~ Unexpectedly short day. Mr. Clean was southbound today, seems he

was dropped off at Hughes Gap to do some slackpacking. He is doing the same

tomorrow except northbound. Mr. Clean invited Obi and myself along for the

slackpacking opportunity. Eighteen miles of just hiking with a fanny pack

was too good of an opportunity to pass up. So, another day getting into the

shelter early and putting a dent into my book. Two leisurely days of hiking

in a row, I am getting spoiled.-Paul

Mile Post 382.6 ~ Elk Park, N.C.

April 2 ~ What an awesome day of hiking. Several miles of hiking on Balds is

by far the best scenery I have seen on this trip so far. Awesome, simply

awesome. Take away forty pounds that are usually on my back, and it was a

perfect day. Today ended with something I have been dreaming of: a steak

dinner! Ah, great hiking and good food. All the bases were covered

today.-Paul

Mile Post 396.1 ~ Moreland Gap Shelter

April 3 ~ "Shelter,Shelter, burning bright, because of Magaroni's

Whisperlight"-with apologies to William Blake, poem courtsey of combined

effort of Mr Clean and myself. Interesting night to sai the least Seems the

O-rings on my stove were loose or something Nothing like see five hikers

(and a dog) run around getting dirt to put out a fire. Biggest loss? My

dinner and a fuel pump. I think my pulse rate shot up by 100 points. Obi,

Viking, Mr Clean, and Lorax said my cooking privieges are revoked until

further notice. I think this has potential to be an opening act for Sigfried

and Roy. The Amazing, Flaming, Whisperlight! Mother Nature is also doing a

light show, thunder and lightning is quite cool to watch. Also much safer

than stoves that turn into fireballs.-Paul

Mile Post 401.8 ~ Kincorra Hiker's Hostel

April 4 ~ Talk about being lazy today. The rain and fog kept us in our bags

until nine AM. So at the last minute the group of us decided to head to this

hostel. Excellent decision. Bob and Pat Peoples, the owners, are two of the

friendliest people around. True friends of hikers. Bob took all of us into

town for food shopping and lunch. Turns out Crash, Dharma Bum, Yoon, and

Oxodus were there as well. So we had a big ol potluck dinner. Home cooked

food, a fireplace, good company and hikers tales from Bob made it a great

evening. Hard to believe in the five weeks that I have bee out here that

these other hikers are now good friends. The AT is more than a trail, it is

a 2160 mile long community.-Paul

Mile Post 419.4 ~ Vandeventer Shelter

April 5 ~ Good weather today. Hiking along the Laurel Fork Gorge was very

senic. The only problem was that the bridges were washed out due to storms

from a few weeks back. So we had to do some bushwacking. The orange blazes

showing a temporary trail seem to be non-existant. All worked out for the

best when the group of us stumbled onto the AT. Trail magic happened today

as well. A long leisurely, picnic at the lake made for a relaxing afternoon.

Did not get into the shelter until just before sunset, but it was well worth

taking the extra time by the lake.-Paul

Mile Post 434.3 ~ Double Spring Shelter

April 6 ~ Today was an incredibly easy day of hiking. If I did not lollygag

it would have been possible to push to the next shelter. The terrain was

that easy. Possible preview of Virginia? Would be nice. But the cynical

hiker in me says " don't get too comfortable, the AT always throws a few

curveballs." Now I know that is true!-Paul

Mile Post 452.4 ~ Damscus ,Virginia

April 7 ~ I was again amazed at how easy the terrain was. Doing 18 miles in

six hours is a feat that would be nice to repeat. Gett to the Virginia line

was a psychological boost. I can't believe I am in Virginia. Getting to this

State really makes me feel like that Maine is a distinct possibility. At

this point in my hike, the rhythm of the trail is starting to be natural. A

sleeping bag is a natural bed for me, and eating out of one pot seems the

right thing to do. Maybe I really am an AT Thru-Hiker?-Paul

Mile Post 452.4 ~ Damascus, VA

April 8 ~ Mixed feelings about taking today off. I did have chores to do in

town, and doing nothing for a day is relaxing. But, I am really itching to

do some bigger mileage. Mentally and physically I think I am geared up to

push myself a bit more. The weather is noticeably warmer, and the days are

getting longer. It seems that I don't need to rest in town as much as a few

weeks ago. The AT is a great workout program. Eat as much as you want, hike

fifteen miles a day, get in great shape. Better scenery than a health club

too. Hmmmm, wonder what the feasibility of having thru-hikers do television

commercials. They could say "Give the AT six months and we'll take off the

weight!" Show them eating Ben and Jerry's and pizza. Finally, a workout

program I am able to stick to! Great scenery, eat a lot of food, six months

of hiking, get in great shape, and have a blast while doing it all. Pretty

good deal.-Paul

Mile Post 468.2 ~ Lost Mountain Shelter

April 9 ~ Quick question. How does one lose a mountain? And if it's lost, is

it's picture put on a milk carton? Just curious. The hiking is now getting

easier. Not so much because of the terrain, but because this ole body of

mine is finally getting in shape. Amazing what hiking a few hundred miles

can do for a person! (or maybe it was the three cups of coffee I had for

breakfast?) Today was odd, weather wise. First the sun would warm a person,

and just as you were breaking a sweat, the rain would cool you off. Not a

bad deal. Now it is just the right temperature to drink some cocoa and read.

A good book and hot cocoa, what a great combination, right up there with a

peanut butter and jelly sandwich washed down with a cold glass of milk.-Paul

Mile Post 468.2 ~ Lost Mountain Shelter

April 10 ~ Yes, I was a slacker today. Looked outside and saw some sleet. So

I (as well as Viking, Obi, Lorax, and Fool on the Hill) went back to bed.

Woke up at nine thirty, ten o'clock and saw that it was snowing! So, the

heck with it. Pulled out my book and just read all day. Lorax and Fool

decided to do the same thing. Consider today a true 0 mileage day. Biggest

walk was fifty yards to get the water. Charmed life we lead on the AT.

People say cruises are the epitome of luxury. I don't know. A warm sleeping

bag, a good nap and something to read was just fine.-Paul

Mile Post 485.5 ~ Wise Shelter

April 11 ~ Awesome. Beautiful. Breathtaking. Scenic. I do not know enough

adjectives to describe this stretch of trail. When I go back home, this is

the kind of hiking I will describe. Huge grass meadows, surrounded by

distant mountain peaks with herds of feral ponies five feet from the trail.

By far some of the most spectacular hiking I have done in my life. It is

days like this that make all the snow and cold of last month worth it. A big

surprise today was getting to see Viking and Obi at the shelter. Apparently

the weather I sat out was far worse at 5000 feet. Hiking through an ice

storm on exposed ridges made both of them a little timid. Also, no sooner

did I pull into the shelter when Yoon and Dharma Bum showed up. So my entire

"hiker family" was here tonight. I have been hiking with the same group of

people since N.O.C. and I feel fortunate that I was able to meet such a

great group on the trail. To make a good day even better, the Easter Bunny

came early for me in the form of a group of weekenders. Seems this group

does an Easter hike every year. After talking a bit, they gave me a Cadbury

egg. One of my favorites! Now, if I can somehow get a slice or two of my

grandmother's rice pie...-Paul

Mile Post 501.6 ~ Troutdale, VA

April 12 ~ Came to the Fox Hill Inn today for a little Easter dinner. Lorax

happens to enjoy cooking as a hobby, so Viking, Fool, and myself enjoyed the

fruits of his labor. (sticking us with dishwashing duty, only fair) Somehow

grilled chicken was just a bit better than Lipton's. Today was also the five

hundred mark on the trail. Not too shabby. Only about 1650 miles to go. On

the hiking front, I had another great day in the Grayson Highlands area. The

scenery in this stretch of trail is something I will not forget. Simply

incredible.-Paul

Mile Post 523.3 ~ Chatfield Shelter

April 13 ~ Today was the kind of day that makes me glad I'm a backpacker.

The spring colors are starting to dominate. The drab browns of winter are

now being replaced by lush greens, deep reds, vibrant yellows and subdued

whites. It's almost as if someone took a box of crayons and colored the

landscape. Days like this make me realize how fortunate I am to be able to

hike the AT. The AT is full of many pleasures, both subtle and dramatic.

Just like the colors of spring, every experience I have adds color to the

mosaic of my memory.-Paul

Mile Post 541.9 ~ Knot Maul Branch Shelter

April 14 ~ Went through farm land today. Not exactly wilderness, but it was

still nice to have a lunch break overlooking this different type of scenic

view. Before I did this though, I went to breakfast at a restaurant right

near the trail. First time I ever had two courses at breakfast. The other

customers in the restaurant find it quite amusing to watch these scruffy

looking guys eat and eat and eat. After this feeding frenzy, I had to take a

nap at the Davis Path Shelter. The weather is still on a sunny streak.

Virginia is turning out to be a very nice state. Easier terrain, gorgeous

views, and great biscuits and gravy for breakfast near the trail.-Paul

Mile Post 560.8 ~ Jenkins Shelter

April 15 ~ Talk about contrasts. The first nine miles to the Chestnut Knob

Shelter was quite nice. More panoramic views over farmland while hiking in

grassy meadows. Took a long lunch break at the shelter, just soaking up the

scenery. The second half... [Transcriber's note: rest missing]-Paul

Mile Post 575.2 ~ Helveys Mill Shelter

April 16 ~ Went into Bland today to pick up my maildrop. Within two minutes

I received a ride. This was only a preview of how friendly the citizens of

Bland are. From the post office to the local market, everyone in Bland is

super friendly to the hikers. The funniest event of the day was the group of

us sorting out our maildrops in the local restaurant. The local patrons must

have found it amusing to see this vast sea of Ramen, PopTarts, mac n'cheese

and Snickers laid out on the tables in the restaurant. Getting a ride back

to the trailhead was very easy. After a short three mile hike, I arrived at

this shelter. With thunder storms on the horizon, I opted to stay in the

shelter rather than pitch my tent. Crowded shelter tonight. Seven people and

a dog makes for close quarters. Ah, the joys of thru-hiking.-Pau

Mile Post 585.0 ~ Jenny Knob Shelter

April 17 ~ Should have pitched my tent last night. Maybe received four hours

sleep total. Ouch. When that many people are in a shelter, it is difficult

to get a good night of sleep. So between the lack of sleep, and a full pack

from a maildrop, the miles just dragged by. When I saw the shelter sign at

1:30, it was too tempting. I just had to stop. A nice short day is just what

I needed. I also think I will tent more often. Sleep comes much easier for

me in a tent than in a shelter. I like the company at a shelter, but

sleeping in one is a different matter. As someone said before "If you can't

sleep, you can't hike". Today proved that saying all too well.-Paul

Mile Post 607.0 ~ Doc's Knob Shelter

April 18 ~ Amazing what a good night of sleeping can do for the body. By

eight, I was out like a light. Today I realized how much I missed my

solitude. The group I have been hiking with are great people, but I needed a

day away from them. One of the things I enjoy about hiking is the fact that

I do some thinking I normally would not do. When seeing the same group all

the time, my thoughts are focused outward, not inward. I think

self-reflection is very important for me to enjoy hiking. The "gang" is now

in Pearisburg, so I will probably catch up with them in a day or two. By

then, I will be ready to see them again. Another thing I noticed today was

that the last hour before arriving in camp is the hardest hour of the day.

You're tired, you're hungry, your feet ache. It does not matter how many

miles you did, or how difficult the terrain is, the last hour is just a

killer. Dealing with this situation uses various methods. Sometimes my mind

wanders and thinks of favorite songs. The problem with that is, like most

people, I only know the chorus and a few random verses of my favorite songs.

Hearing the chorus for "Paint it Black" over and over again can be a trying

experience. Another method is thinking about what kind of food I crave. I

won't get into how maddening those thoughts can be. The last method is

looking at the map. The funny thing about topo maps and profile maps are

that they don't show the little ups and downs that feel like mountains by

the end of the day. So looking at the maps can be self-defeating. By the

time I do all these things, the hour hopefully goes by fast. Then I see that

oh-so-wonderful sign that says "ABC Shelter". YES! Another dreaded "one hour

until camp" blues dealt with. Until tomorrow that is.-Paul

Mile Post 615.2 ~ Pearisburg, VA

April 19 ~ Nice short hike into town. Well, relatively nice. Thunder,

lightning and cold rain add a certain ambiance that is more akin to Gothic

horror novels than, say "Appalachian Spring". The thunder sounded a tad too

close. Becoming "Magaroni Flambe" on a ridge is not a concept I hope to

experience on my hike. Finally, I arrived into town. Sopping wet, a bit

chilled, but alive with the thought of pizza, a hot shower and a soft bed.

Tomorrow I will hit the trail again. To quote from Muir: "The mountains are

calling, and I must go."-Paul

Mile Post 627.7 ~ Symms Gap Meadow

April 20 ~ The mountains were calling today; so were cars, factory noises

and trains. The AT was roughly a mile of road walking for this section. It

is funny that when people found out I was going on this trip, they thought I

would be in the remote wilderness. That concept just does not happen on the

AT. Being no more than five miles or so from a road is typical on this

trail. The views are great, the woods serene, and the mountains are

majestic. But the road walk was a stark reminder of how the wilderness that

I am in is not that wild at all. It may not be wild, but it is still

spectacular to be in. As I write this entry, the horizon is a scarlet red.

The clouds are tinged pink with the last light of the setting sun. The place

where I am tenting is a grassy meadow that has a display of peaks from West

Virginia. The AT may not be true wilderness, but the form of wilderness I am

seeing is still majestic.-Paul

Mile Post 646.4 ~ War Spar Shelter

April 21 ~ Nothing of note happened today. No dramatic views, no bad

weather. No funny anecdotes, no horror syories. Today's hiling was the

equivalent of a Barry manilow song: not too good, but not too bad. The

climbs were moderate, the river walks were nice. The rocks on the trail were

a pain, but did not last that long. all in all an atypical day. Atypical

because nothing happened. So in a Yoda-esque way, on the AT the unusual is

ordinary. I did make an important discovery today. I realized that all Ramen

noodles are all the same flavor. The so-called flavorings are actually just

slapped on the package to make you think Ramen comes in more than one

flavor. The one Ramen flavor? MSG-Supreme.-Paul

Mile Post 664.3 ~ Niday Shelter

April 22 ~ A new animal appeared on the trail. The vicious Vibram sole

eating rocks of the Virginia ridges, Aye Carumba! My dogs were barking when

I came to this shelter. A three sideed shelter looked like a "palatial

estate" from a ritzy suburb. The hiking was not all a rockhop. Going through

pastures while being moo-ed at has a certain charm. I was not sure if I was

hiking the Appalachian Trail or was in an episode of "Green Acres" It was a

sure sign to hurry up and leave these pastures when the sight of cows

brought to mind steak, a baked potatoe and a tossed salad. Now it is night

time. Since I am tired, I am sure some sleep will come fast. My only fear is

that I will dream about moo-ing rocks that will try to eat my boots. Wonder

what Freud would say about that kind of dream?-Paul

Mile Post 686.0 ~ Catawba, Va

April 23 ~ Hiking today reminded me of the White Mountains. Near an ominous

sounding place called "The Dragon's Tooth" the hike is off the ridge on a

steep, rocky scramble. Had to use my hands at times to get down the sides of

the mountain. A passing shower and a brief hail storm added to the fun. I

enjoy these rock climbs, though. Mt hiking style is slow and steady, the

only way to do climbs like this. Viking and I then arrived at VA311 to

receive a hitch to "The Home Place" restaurant that offers those magic words

thru-hikers love "All You Can Eat". And eat I did. stomping around in my

hiking boots and wearing smelly hiker clothes made me fell a little out of

place at this fairly fancy place, but those thoughts quickly vanished as I

plunged into the chicken, mashed potatoes and shredded BBQ pork. Yummy! This

great day ended late with a nice soak in the jacuzzi at the local B&B. As I

look at my watch, it is past midnight. Latest I have been up to on this

whole trip! Funny how quickly I have gotten used to going to bed at 8:30 PM!

Early to bed and early to rise make a thru hiker healthy ( if you don't

count the blisters or rashes or creaky joints most of us get), wealthy

(going to bed at dark saves money on batteries for flashlights), and wise (

maybe, but this thru-hiker still likes mac n' cheese after all most two

months on the trail, not too wise).-Paul

Mile Post 690.3 ~ Campbell Shelter

April 24 ~ Towns are certainly hard to get out of at times. Did not hit the

trail again until two o'clock! Between the huge breakfast, going to the post

office and a little shopping at the general store, time certainly has a way

of going fast. Just as well, I feel totally relaxed. The highlight of today

was McAfee Knob. Perched on this slab of rock jutting out, with panoramic

views, is just awesome. It also provides a great Kodak moment that is sure

to gives Moms everywhere a rather large case of the heebee-jeebees. (Why is

my son on the ledge of this mountain?!?!) Today I was also able to

experience one of the best things about town: letters! More than even hot

showers or good food, letters really make the day. My buddy Leo sent me a

letter at Catawba. I could almost picture him saying the comments he wrote

in this letter. Definately put a grin on my face that will last for a while.

Virginia has been kind to me so far. Consistent spring like weather, easier

grades and some truly remarkable scenery. Virginia blues? Not yet. And if

things continue well, maybe I will avoid the dreaded Virginia Blues (But it

would be nice to hear some Chicago blues).-Paul

Mile Post 705.8 ~ US220/Econo Lodge

April 25 ~ The burden. Monkey on my back. Sixteen tons. All apt names for

the placing of the pack on your back in the morning. But then, the legs

start moving, the body again accepts the fact of an additional forty pounds

on the back. Another day on the AT unfolds. Hiking is not all just

shouldering a load. Crossing over the Tinkers Cliffs instantly made the pack

feel twenty pounds lighter. That is what this is all about, moments that put

a smile on your face and make everything seem right. A word of advice to any

future thru-hikers reading my ramblings: do not go to an AYCE buffet and

expect to hike some more miles. Just does not work. Oof, after the lunch I

ate, I could roll down the mountain, hiking was out of the question.-Paul

Mile Post 724.4 ~ Bobblets Gap Shelter

April 26 ~ Had my first encounter with the Blue Ridge Parkway. Odd going on

the trail and seeing these cars speeding along on a scenic road. Even odder

when the cars are a mere forty feet away. The weirdest part of the day,

though, was when the AT crossed over one of these scenic overlooks that cars

can pull up into. The looks on the people in these overlooks said it all:

"Who are these sweaty, grungy looking, bad smelling people coming out of the

woods?" I know how they feel. I saw myself in the mirror. I was wondering

who was this grungy looking person. (But since I had just showered, the

sweaty look was not there.) Today was a good stretch of trail for hiking.

Sometimes the miles go by fast, with nice terrain. This was one of those

days. Have to enjoy these good days that the AT grants us.-Paul

Mile Post 736.8 ~ Bryant Ridge Shelter

April 27 ~ A cold snap has hit this portion of Virginia. Gray skies and

drizzle was how the morning started off. Even had to wear my mittens while

hiking. Considering how much I was sweating yesterday, it was actually a

nice change. I came to this shelter at 2:30 today. What a deluxe place.

Sleeping lofts, windows, porch with a roof, almost expected a microwave

oven. Such a nice place I decided to make it a short day and spend the

night. The sun came out at about four today. Should be a nice day to cross

over Apple Orchard Mountain, the last 4000 footer until New Hampshire. This

journal is being written at a campfire while sipping on cocoa. It is still

chilly, but I am content. I am not sure what is more memorable: awe

inspiring views, or more subtle moments like these. Somehow sipping cocoa by

a campfire seems the perfect way to end the day.-Paul

Mile Post 747.0 ~ Thunder Hill Shelter

April 28 ~ I am beginning to believe that there are few things in life as

nice as springtime in Virginia. The wildflowers are really blooming, the

weather has been nice, and the hiking has been great. All good reasons to

lollygag and enjoy the day. The two hour lunch breaks, while looking at the

Blue Ridge Mountains, are certainly addicting. Think I will resume my normal

pace, but for now I will enjoy spring at a slow and leisurely pace.-Paul

Mile Post 762.0 ~ Wildwood Campground

April 29 ~ Warm days, cold nights. I like that combination. Being able to

take a break without throwing on fleece is a great feeling. Come night time,

the insects are not out, and the temperature is just right to enjoy a cup of

cocoa. Then I slip into my sleeping bag and settle in for the night. It is a

comforting pattern that is easy to get used to. The law of gravity was

definately working in my fava. Amazing how fast I can hike downhill [with

the added incentive of a hot shower]. Life is certainly much more simple the

past couple of months. Where am I going to sleep and how far away is the

water are the main questions that are important to me. Should be an

interesting transition back to the "real world" when this journey is

over.-Paul

Mile Post 782.1 ~ Brown Mountain Creek Shelter

April 30 ~ The early pioneers of this country were brave, industrious and

rugged, but definetely not original. How many times am I going to pass over

a Brushy or Bluff Mountain? How many Deep Gaps are there on the trail? Just

a random thought that occurred to me today. It was a late start on the trail

today, almost ten o'clock. Made for a later arrival in camp than I prefer.

The last three miles were just emotionally draining. Seems my mind and body

want to shut down at six. But it is amazing how relieved you feel when

getting to camp. You know to the very core that the day is done. It is a

great feeling. Then, dinner is cooked. Eating a meal not only replenishes

the energy expended in the course of the day, but it is comforting. A hot

meal seems to make everything better. Now I am doing my traditional evening

routine: writing my journal while sipping cocoa. I am relaxed, ready to

start a new day. Life is simple on the AT. And in this simplicity

contentment is found.-Pau

l

Mile Post 797.9 ~ Seeley - Woodsworth Shelter

May 1 ~ Steady rain and fog seemed to be the theme for the day. But I

actually enjoyed hiking today, despite the weather. All the rain made me

think of when I was four or five years old. It was time to stop playing at

the first sign of rain. Now, here I am twenty years later playing in the

rain. Guess some things really do come full circle. The gentle tapping of

the rain on the shelter roof is relaxing. Makes for a great way to unwind

after hiking. Sleep should come easy tonight.-Paul

Mile Post 818.5 ~ Maupin Field Shelter

May 2 ~ Had an outing to downtown Tyro today. Downtown Tyro consists of a

combination grocery store post office. But it had all the essentials; namely

cold cans of Mountain Dew and plenty of flavors of Ben & Jerry's ice cream.

Eighty grams of fat and 1000 calories in the ice cream combined with the

caffeine boost of a Dew sure made the climbs somehow easier today. I briefly

talked to my youngest brother on the phone. His reaction to my activities

was "You're really roughing it, huh?" But just think; I had to walk over 800

miles to have a can of soda in downtown Tyro. Well worth it too.-Paul

Mile Post 818.5 ~ *********

May 3 & May 4 ~ Since the owner of where I am staying is a private person

who does not want much publicity. I will just say it is a place of great

hospitality and a relaxed atmosphere. Have to hike here to actually find out

about it.-Paul

Mile Post 818.5 ~ Same Place

May 5 ~ Went into Waynesboro to pick up my maildrop today. By the time we

shuttled back, the dark clouds opened up with torrential downpours. Seems I

won't leave here today afterall. Oh well, at least I won't have to go into

Waynesboro now to get my maildrop. And it is not like I needed a lot of arm

twisting to stay here again.-Paul

Mile Post 831.6 ~ Paul Wolfe Mem Shelter

May 6 ~ Finally escaped! After three days of not hiking I was definately

dragging. But, by the end of the day, I actually felt better. The familiar

rhythm was back. At this shelter is a family doing a flip-flop from Boiling

Springs, PA to Springer. Then they are going to hike Katahdin to Boiling

Springs. The eleven year old is having a blast. I hope he realizes how lucky

he is to experience such an adventure. Backpacking on the AT sure beats what

I did at eleven years old. [Which was attending Catholic School. Definately

not as much fun as backpacking.]-Paul

Mile Post 849.6 ~ Campsite in Shenandoah's

May 7 ~ A blanket of fog covered the woods. When I arrived at Calf Mountain

Shelter for a lunch break, I was sorely tempted to stay, even though it was

only 1:30. But I didn't, and wound up in a torrential downpour. Since hiking

in the rain is not something I felt like doing for another eight miles,

pitching my tent seemed like the best option. Not the worst option either.

Sometimes it is good to have some time alone. Also, the sound of rain on a

tent is very relaxing. I am beginning to believe that flexibility, not

mileage done in a day is the key to enjoy hiking on the AT.-Paul

Mile Post 869.6 ~ Pinefield Hut

May 8 ~ Not the most promising start for a day of hiking. At four A.M.

lightning that could easily light up Fenway Park flashed. The thunder

sounded like two freight trains colliding. This little floor show kept me up

for an hour. Also, since I was tenting on a ridge line, the lightning was

that much more exciting, to say the least. When I woke up again, the storm

was in a lull, a perfect time to break camp. When that was done, I noticed

that the middle of my hiking stick's grip was missing! Apparently a deer

liked the salts from my sweat. There is a deer somewhere in the Shenandoah's

with a case of indigestion, a rubber grip can't be that good for the

stomach. The rest of the day was not a bust though. Several deer came within

ten feet of me, and I saw my first rainbow this trip. It was in an arc with

the mountains forming a backdrop. While looking at this spectacle, a

mini-van pulled up and out popped a woman wanting to know if I was "one of

those people who actually hike to Maine". After playing show and tell for

ten minutes, I was offered a soda. The caffeine boost made the last 1.5

miles into camp a bit easier. Looks like I have the shelter all to myself

tonight. That is a rarity. Think I will fall asleep early tonight. The

nearby brook and a clear sky makes for a great combination to induce

slumber.-Paul

Mile Post 890.5 ~ Bearfence Mountain Hut

May 9 ~ Level ridge-walking and a very foggy day makes for a less than

exciting hike. Much daydreaming is done on days like this. This monotony was

made for when I arrived here tonight. Immediately upon my arrival I was

offered BBQ chicken, a beer and toasted marshmallows by these guys out for

the weekend. The hiking might have been lackluster, but the end of the day

was anything but. And not just because of the trail magic. When I removed my

socks, the top of my toes looked like Hamburger Helper. Hiking twenty-one

miles in wet socks is not the best way to take care of feet. But, dry boots

and socks are two things that can be difficult to get at times.-Paul

Mile Post 906.6 ~ Skyland

May 10 ~ Sunday tourists and grubby thru-hikers make for an odd combination.

Grabbing lunch at Big Meadows, I was a bit out of place in clothes that have

not seen a washing in over a week. Won't even mention what impression my

stench made in this restaurant. I was able to call my Mom today and wish her

a Happy Mother's Day. Amazing what a 10 minute call can do to make Mom

happy. This day ended on a great note, literally. John Lee Hooker was

playing on the radio in my room. My first time listening to the blues in

over two months. Too bad my blues collection is too heavy and bulky to put

in my pack. Some sacrifices just have to be made on a thru-hike.-Paul

Mile Post 917.3 ~ Pass Mountain Hut

May 11 ~ Short day today. Somehow the motive to do big mileage is in direct

proportion to two things: 1)amount of sunlight 2)closeness of town or

restaurant. Since I already had a big breakfast at Skyland, I already had my

restaurant fix.The sun was non-existent today, so making mileage to see a

foggy view somehow did not hold any great incentive. So, I made the best of

the situation, and had a long lunch break at a picnic shelter. Every day has

something to offer, just have to find the good in it. At the shelter tonight

a woman named Sue, and her daughter Melissa, were out for the week and Sue

recognized me from my journal entries. She filled me up with her extra food,

call it enlightened self-interest on her part. I must say tapioca pudding,

Little Debbie Snacks, and Gummi Bears made for a nice set of treats. The

only thru-hiker tonight here is myself, but the conversation tonight is

great. A section hiker from Australia tells the funniest stories. Nice

change of pace from the usual thru-hiker stories of food, lack of food,

types of food we crave and what kind of food is available up the trail.

Blackberry shapes at Elk Wallow wayside is the thing to get, according to

trail rumor!-Paul

Mile Post 941.0 ~ Tom Floyd Wayside

May 12 ~ I was definitely in "granny gear" getting out of my bag this

morning. Hiking in the cold drizzle did not seem that appealing. My nice,

warm, dry sleeping bag might have been a king size bed at the Hotel Hilton

by the way I procrastinated getting out of it today. Somehow I finally

crawled out of the bag, ate breakfast, and moved on! The hiking was not too

bad, just getting out of the bed is the hard part. My last day in the

Shenandoahs was an easy one, just too bad all I saw was fog at the

overlooks. There was a neat looking tunnel of mountain laurel that almost

made up for the lack of views. So now I am 0 for 2 for good weather in

national parks. (By the way, the blackberry shake was good, mmmmmmm

mmmmmmm).-Paul

Mile Post 954.9 ~ Manassas Gap Shelter

May 13 ~ Another day of going into town for supplies, then getting out. The

sun came out for the first time in over a week. Hard to believe it was cold

and drizzly yesterday. The days in Virginia are winding down. Seems like I

have been in this state forever. Virginia is truly a state of transitions.

When first entering Virginia, my hike was still new, the state had a

definete "Southern Feel" to it, and the trail seemed to go on for ever. Now

my hike is a routine. I do not mean that in a bad way, but in a way that

means I have adapted to life on the trail. The Mason-Dixon is also getting

closer, and my New England accent does not seem to stand out as much

anymore. The completion of the trail now seems a real possibility to me. I

still have over 1000 miles to go at this point, but completing a state is

always a great morale booster. The Virginia blues did not happen to me, but

I will be glad to move forward. Virginia was not as easy as people claim it

is, but it was more beautiful than I expected. All in all, a fair

compromise.-Paul

Mile Post 978.1 ~ Bears Den Hostel

May 14 ~ Talk about a day of pointless ups and downs. The climbs themselves

were moderate, but one moderate climb after another, with no views, makes

for a long day. Call it a last goodbye from Virginia. On to Harper's Ferry

in the A.M., and with that the "psychological" half-way point. One step at a

time has brought me this far, and one step at a time will let me reach

Katahdin.-Paul

Mile Post 998.5 ~ Harper's Ferry, WV

May 15 ~ Finally made it to this trail milestone! Did not even think about

this town two and a half months ago, now here I am! The history buff in me

is excited at the thought of checking out the sights. Yep, I get to play

tourist tomorrow. Wonder if they sell John Brown salt and pepper shakers in

the gift shop? At this point on the trail, things are doing A.OK. The only

piece of equipment I am worried about are my boots. The boots themselves are

still in good shape, but the soles are looking like bald tires. Considering

that there were 400 miles on these boots before I started this trip, it is

to be expected. As for myself, no major aches or pains. After a full day of

hiking, my legs do stiffen up, but are fine by the A.M. Mentally, I am doing

excellent. My lowest point was probably just before Hot Springs, but the

cold days are long gone. The adventure of a lifetime is treating me

well.-Paul

Mile Post 998.5 ~ Harpers Ferry

May 16 ~ Nothing like hiker trash playing tourist. I was able to see John

Brown's Armory, a civil war museum and several gift shops that charged $15

or more for T-shirts with a cute civil war saying on them. Alas, no John

Brown salt and pepper shakers. It was an excellent day to sight see, the

temperature approached 90. I was quite content to fill out postcards by the

bank of the Shenandoah River. In the civil war museum, I discovered what the

motto for West Virginia is: "Montani Semper Liberi" - Mountaineers Always Free.

Pretty fair summary of the thru-hiker lifestyle.-Paul

Mile Post 1014.0 ~ Rocky Rim Shelter

May 17 ~ A warm, humid day was the way things were. Seemed as if gallons of

sweat were pouring off as I hiked the trail. The Weverton Cliffs provided a

welcome pull off point for lunch. The vista of the rivers below make for a

nice postcard type photo. Fool on the Hill was at the shelter tonight, first

time I have seen him in a while. Always good to see someone who I thought

was a bit ahead.-Paul

Mile Post 1033.6 ~ Devil's Race Course Shelter

May 18 ~ This portion of the AT should be called the Maryland Suburb Walk.

The trail literally goes between homes and the backyards of "Leave it to

Beaver" type suburbs. Seeing people, not twenty feet away, mowing their

lawns is not something that I expected to see on this trip. The shelters are

also very close to the roads. Even the illusion of wilderness is difficult

to have on this portion of the AT. Can't be helped I guess, being so close

to heavily populated areas. Tomorrow I will be in Pennsylvania, officially

leaving the South behind. So long biscuits and gravy, it was nice knowing

you.-Paul

Mile Post 1053.5 ~ Rocky Mountain Shelters

May 19 ~ Celebrated my birthday by crossing over into Pennsylvania. WooHoo!

No birthday cake today, but a long lunch break at the Antietam Shelter

proved to be the highlight of the day. It was a muggy day, but the creek at

the shelter was just right to wade in. The ice cold water seemed to make the

rest of the day go by very easy. Any day where I can do a bit of swimming

and still make it to the shelter before six has to be a good day.-Paul

Mile Post 1073.0 ~ Toms Run Shelters

May 20 ~ Another day good for miles and taking it easy. Had an unexpected

mid-morning break at the Quarry Gap Shelter area. This shelter is by far one

of the best on the trail. Even has a bench by the stream. Very relaxing

place to soak up the morning sun. If the first break was relaxing, the

second break was just the thing to make the miles fly by. The Birch Run

Shelter area had a large grassy area with a creek flowing in front of it.

Just did not want to move from this spot. Even played a little Frisbee with

Hawk and Funk. [Packing a Frisbee is one of the cooler items I have seen a

thru-hiker carry.] A two hour lunch stop is definately addicting. The best

part of the whole day was that the group of us were able to take such long

breaks and still be in camp before five. A great day! The bugs are

definately out in full force tonight. Which is why I'm glad I have a tent.

The rest of the hikers are getting munched on by the flying blood suckers,

while I am quite comfy in my tent. Methinks they are a little envious of

what some nylon can do for a good night sleep.-Paul

Mile Post 1096.0 ~ Boiling Springs, PA

May 21 ~ Another trail milestone was the event of the day. The half-way

marker was in the woods. A peaceful setting to contemplate what this

milestone means. A part of me was excited that I have reached the half-way

point, but another part is saddened at the fact that this journey will

eventually end. The memories and experiences that are part of the

Appalachian Trail will be hard to leave. This thru-hike has been some of the

most meaningful, exciting and happy times that I have experienced in my

life. Every step brings me closer to Katahdin, but every step brings this

journey that much closer to the end. A prospect that brings both joy and

sadness. Funk, Fool, and myself celebrated this milestone by the requisite

photos, and a mandatory, celebratory Snickers. The town of Boiling Springs

is a relatively new addition to the trail, but it is a nice one. Small and

peaceful. Sitting on the porch swing at the ATC office while looking at the

lake was a fitting end to another great day. Tonight, Funk, Fool and myself

are camped in the backyard at the local bed and breakfast. The night sky is

clear, and it is cool enough that no insects are biting. A perfect night to

sleep under the stars. Gazing up at the canvas that is the night sky, while

lying on the grass lawn is something that I will look back on fondly.-Paul

Mile Post 1117.7 ~ Thelma Marks Shelter

May 22 ~ The Cumberland Valley was an extremely pleasant walk. Temperature

in the low 70's with a slight breeze made walking through large grass fields

a great way to spend a morning. I cannot emphasize enough how much I am

enjoying this hike. Seeing the historic Cumberland Valley on a gorgeous

spring day is another memory that will be etched favorably in my mind. My

boots are now officially no good. The soles are gone and my feet ache

horribly after a few miles. Funk is a native of Pennsylvania and his folks

are going to meet him in Duncannon to bring him to the outfitters. Looks

like I'll be tagging along, too. Odd how much I have become attached to my

Crestas. They have a lot of memorable miles on them. From weekend outings in

the Whites to trekking to the Canadian border in Vermont, and now 1100 miles

on the AT. Hopefully the next 1000 miles will put some memorable miles on a

new pair of boots.-Paul

Mile Post 1121.9 ~ Duncannon PA

May 23 ~ Ah, the Doyle Hotel. How to describe this trail legend. Hmm,

picture an old 1940s detective movie with jazz background music. Instead of

Humphrey Bogart, throw in some smelly hikers. And instead of John Coltrane,

the jukebox in the bar played some country music. The Doyle definitely has a

certain charm. (And the most charming part is that it is cheap.) Duncannon

may not be the fanciest town, but it serves the purpose. Has an excellent

pizza place, too. Tomorrow I get to test my new boots on the infamous rocks

of Pennsylvania. Should prove to be interesting. Nothing like breaking in

new boots on a field of rocks. Think I will wear anti-leather signs at a

Harley Davidson convention for an encore.-Paul

Mile Post 1133.4 ~ Peter's Mountain Shelter

May 24 ~ Lazy, wonderful and relaxing. The way Sundays should be. Knowing I

only had to do eleven miles, there was no rush to reach the shelter. Spent

nearly three hours at an overlook that was a mill before the shelter. There

are now more long distance section hikers on the trail. Nice to see a new

group of faces to add to the mix. I think the people I have been hiking on

and off with have heard all my jokes. A new group of people will take a

while before they realize how awful my jokes are.-Paul

Mile Post 1154.0 ~ Bleu Blaze Hostel

May 25 ~ Rocks of Pennsylvania? Seems to be a bit of a myth. Yes there were

rocks, but not as bad as trail rumor has led us to believe. Instead, the

type of day was a pleasant walk in the woods. The kind of day that seemed

more like a stroll in the park than a difficult climb on a mountain. The day

had an ebb and flow that seemed to go well. It seems as if I do not have to

push myself as hard now. Pennsylvania has been benign, hopefully it will

stay that way.-Paul

Mile Post 1168.9 ~ 501 Shelter

May 26 ~ Yahoo! Less than 1000 miles to Katahdin. Getting down to triple

digits is an odd feeling. Call it another bittersweet moment. At the

shelter, the caretaker has a phone to call in pizza. Waiting at the parking

lot near the shelter, Relax, Brian and I saw a car pull up. Ah! The pizza is

here. So, being the hungry hikers we are, we had a scary look on our faces.

I know we were scary, because the woman driving the car looked at us with

extreme fear. Of course, not being the pizza delivery person, and seeing

these people hovering her car did not help matters. I thought for sure I was

going to get pepper sprayed. When I asked if she was the pizza delivery

person, she gave a very scared "NO"! For some odd reason, she went on her

jog at what seemed like an extremely fast pace. When the actual pizza

delivery person showed up, I was just a small bit hesitant to approach the

car. I am beginning to believe that my appearance is that of a person that

mothers warn their children about.-Paul

Mile Post 1192.2 ~ Port Clinton, PA

May 27 ~ I have found the true faith. Hallelujah! Yes, I now am a firm

believer that the rocks of Pennsylvania deserve every horror story that is

told about them. Big rocks, small rocks, sharp rocks, blunt rocks, black

rocks, white rocks, rocks, rocks, rocks! My dogs aren't just barking - they

are foaming at the mouth in a rabid rage. This thru-hiker is one tired

puppy. I think a big breakfast at the local restaurant will be just the

ticket to face the infamous rocks of PA for another day.-Paul

Mile Post 1207.7 ~ Eckville Shelter

May 28 ~ Three-H weather was the main event. Hot, hazy, humid. The kind of

day that people will say "It's not the heat, it's the humidity". In any

case, much water was consumed today. Tepid water, mmmm! I will gladly take

this weather though. It is far better than the snow of a couple of months

back. This shelter has a caretaker that offers all the essentials: ice cream

sandwiches, cold Mountain Dews, and B.B. King playing on the radio.

Definitely what this hiker needed on a sultry May evening.-Paul

Mile Post 1226.4 ~ Bake Oven Knob Shelter

May 29 ~ Another hot day in this Bake Oven of rocks that is called

Pennsylvania. The haze was a thick blanket on the horizon, with the sun

beating down, making one feel like they are in a broiler. But there was an

oasis in this field of rocks, a hiker friendly restaurant that is

air-conditioned! Ah, relief! The heat was broken late afternoon when a

thunder shower brought a cooling rain. Now the insects are gone, and the

temperature is now tolerable. New Jersey is not too far away. The miles keep

coming, one step at a time.-Paul

Mile Post 1251.0 ~ Leroy A. Smith Shelter/a>

May 30 ~ Water, such a valuable substance, especially when I run out of it

with ten miles left to the hike, and the spring six miles before the shelter

is gone dry. Ack! My daydreaming involved large glasses of ice tea,

lemonade, and pitchers of ice water. Running out of water is not something I

recommend to try on a thru-hike. The ridge overlooking Palmerton was

interesting. The ridge was bare of live trees and was full of rocks. The

only trees standing were groves of dead ones. The whole landscape was

looking like something out of a science fiction novel. The years of zinc

smelting in Palmerton apparently took their toll on this ridge. This was my

longest day on the trail, but I do not feel as tired as expected. Tomorrow

morning might be a different story, though.-Paul

Mile Post 1270.9 ~ Delaware Water Gap, PA

May 31 ~ Another state down. New Jersey awaits. The rocks again kicked our

behinds. Think I will take tomorrow off to do some chores I have been

needing to do. The hostel is a great place to kick back and catch up on some

reading. The lights are flickering because of a nasty thunderstorm outside.

Hopefully the rain will cool things down a bit.-Paul

Mile Post 1270.9 ~ Delaware Water Gap, PA

June 1 ~ Going into town to do laundry felt odd. Any time I am in town and

off the trail it does not feel natural. Too many people, too much activity,

too much noise. Makes me wonder how I will adjust to the "real world" when

this journey is over. After three months of being on the trail, camping is a

way of life; staying up past nine to read a book is a novelty.-Paul

Mile Post 1281.4 ~ Camp Mohican

June 2 ~ Crossing over into New Jersey was a nice way to start the day.

Streams along side the trail, with mountain laurel in full bloom made for a

pleasant walk. A leisurely lunch by Sunfish Pond proved to be the perfect

way to spend the afternoon. Finally, actual swimming in Catfish Pond at Camp

Mohican ended the day on a good note. Days like this feel more like a day

hike than a five month backpacking trip. Not a bad feeling.-Paul

Mile Post 1302.4 ~ Gren Anderson Shelter

June 3 ~ New Jersey has been one of the more pleasant surprises of the AT.

Small ponds along side the trail, striking views of the ridges, pine

forests, and tunnels of mountain laurel that seem to be everywhere. I have

even seen a black bear! New Jersey is proving to be one of the more

enjoyable states to hike in. Who would have thought? As with most people,

when I think of New Jersey, I think of toxic waste dumps. No longer. I will

think of the hike along the ridge, seeing mountain laurel that is a pale

shade of pink.-Paul

Mile Post 1323.0 ~ Camp Site

June 4 ~ Another great day in New Jersey. Cool temps in the low 60's, a

sunny sky, and awesome vistas. Definately the kind of day made for hiking.

Found a great campsite near a brook. After twenty miles, I think tenting

will be just the ticket. Tomorrow should be an easy day into town and with

that the all important shower. Fresh fruit sounds good, too.-Paul

Mile Post 1335.0 ~ Veron, NJ

June 5 ~ Ah, the lap of luxury! Sleeping at the fire station with a hot

shower! Funny how after more than three months out here, a hot shower is the

ultimate luxury. Cleaning away the grime is definately the best. Tomorrow, I

will be in New York. Can't believe how fast the states are going by. Soon I

will be back "home". New England is just around the corner, and with that,

the mountains I know well.-Paul

Mile Post 1354.4 ~ Fitzgerald Falls

June 6 ~ The firefighters of Vernon are definitely hiker friendly. Not only

did they allow us to stay at the pavilion and to shower, but they shuttled

us to the laundromat and to the trail this morning. They also have future

plans to add a washer and dryer hook-ups for the hikers to use. Not too

shabby. Had a great lunch on Prospect Rock. The weather continues to be

excellent. From Prospect Rock, I was able to see both the Empire State

Building and the World Trade Center. Not a bad way to enter a new state. The

only mishap today is that I missed the shelter turn-off. The shelter's side

trail was blue blazed, but did not have a sign! I had a sinking feeling I

missed the shelter when the trail started to descend. But everything worked

out for the best. The camping area by the falls is awesome. Plenty of flat

spots to pitch my tent, and the always relaxing sound of waterfalls. Another

one of the many great days I have had on this trail.-Paul

Mile Post 1366.8 ~ Fingerboard Shelter

June 7 ~ Felt very lethargic today. The miles seemed very difficult, and

seemed to take a lot out of me. Think I am coming down with something. Plan

on doing a little reading, and going to bed early tonight.-Paul

Mile Post 1380.5 ~ Ft Montgomery, NY

June 8 ~ Defintely have a "bug" of some sort. Had a low grade headache all

day, and I had the chills when I climbed into the bed at the hotel. Another

early night it looks like. Think I will also do a very low mileage day

tomorrow.-Paul

Mile Post 1387.7 ~ Graymoor Friary

June 9 ~ Had a relaxing day at the camping site near the friary. Was able to

relax on the grass and read for most of the day. Already starting to feel

much better. One more night of an early bedtime should get me back to

par.-Paul

Mile Post 1406.4 ~ RPH Shelter

June 10 ~ Ah, definately feeling better. The day again had great weather. I

was no longer tired and was able to arrive at camp at a decent time. A long

day of rest was definately needed. The trail was a tunnel of mountain

laurel, with periodic breaks of pine trees. Funny seeing pines at these

lower elevations. Means I am getting further North, and will soon be back in

the mountains I know well.-Paul

Mile Post 1423.5 ~ Campsite North of WestPower Rd

June 11 ~ I woke up this morning with the worse hiker hunger I have had yet.

The lure of a deli less than a half mile off the trail was too strong to

pass up. The deli was a slice of paradise to all of us hungry hikers. Eggs,

sausage, bacon and cheese on a bagel, washed down with a cup of coffee and a

half gallon of milk really hit the spot. Then I bought my lunch to go. Hot

capicola, provolone cheese, marinated red peppers all on a fresh roll.

Yummy! This made a great lunch at Nuclear Lake. Yep, the trail is now newly

relocated to the shores of this lake. The orange streamers marking the relo

are still up and the blazes looked brand spanking new. The lake was great.

Little peninsulas jutting into the lake covered with pink mountain laurel.

Finally, I had a surprise tonight. A ranger from New Jersey was on the trail

today, and he recognizes the group of us. He shuttled our group into Pawling

for dinner. Since, we met up at the shelter just before the road, it worked

out great. The end of this fine day is at the best camp site yet for me on

the trail. It is a grass field surrounded by distant hills, and in this tall

grass are countless fireflies. All I can think of is the ocean back home.

Instead of twinkling lights on a dark ocean, there are twinkling lights on a

sea of grass that seems to extend forever. Impressive sight as I gaze on it

sitting at the base of a lone tree that seems to be an island in a sea of

grass. Relaxing, peaceful, inspiring. All campsites should be this

good.-Paul

Mile Post 1444.1 ~ Mt. Aglo Lean-to

June 12 ~ The spell of sunny weather has been broken. The first rainy day in

quite some time had arrived. No complaints from me, the weather had been

exceptional, a little drizzle now and then is no problem. Today we

celebrated two milestones: two-thirds of trail is now completed, and we are

in New England. Feels odd to be back "home". Knowing that where I live is

now only a three hour drive by car from now until Maine is also a weird

feeling. But, I still have many miles and many memories to live before I am

ready to go back to my "normal" life.-Paul

Mile Post 1451.6 ~ Stewart Hollow Brook Lean-to

June 13 ~ Flexibility. Flexibility. Flexibility. That is how to successfully

do a thru-hike. After I picked up my maildrop, I hit the trail again. I

think Mother Nature's kitchen sink backed up, because the light drizzle

quickly turned into a torrential downpour, complete with thunder and

lightning. (Every time there is lightning, I seem to be on a ridge line.

Makes for an interesting day.) The rain was by far the most I have seen yet

on the trail. So, I thought the heck with it, I am taking an early day. It

is dry and comfortable in this shelter. My meal is rehydrating, and Hawk and

Funk just showed up. Need days like this every so often.-Paul

Mile Post 1461.7 ~ Pine Swamp Brook Lean-to

June 14 ~ Another lazy day, mileage wise. The terrain of Connecticut is

surprisingly rugged. Numerous ups and downs give the ole legs quite the

workout. I did not leave the shelter until 9:30 this morning. Being

somewhere dry has a certain charm. Makes it hard to go off and hike. The

rain was a steady drizzle for most of the day, but as soon as I reached this

shelter, the rain came down in buckets. Talk about great timing! It is good

to be back in New England. The numerous pines and rocky terrain give the

trail a familiar feel. I am even spotting the occasional birch tree, another

reminder that I am steadily moving North.-Paul

Mile Post 1481.6 ~ Riga Lean-to

June 15 ~ OK, I made my peace with the weather. Hiking in the rain is an

expected part of a thru-hike. This kind of hiking is actually relaxing in

its own way. Since you can't see anything off the ridges, you notice other

parts of the trail that normally go unnoticed. The way a particular brook

seems to run over rocks, the small flowers peeking through the pine needles

or the scent of how a forest smells when it is raining. The only thing I did

not like about today was the shelter register. Almost every entry mentions

how incredible the valley looks from the shelter, and what a beautiful

sunrise they saw. All I see is a thick wall of fog! Oh well, can't win them

all. A dry shelter is enough for tonight.-Paul

Mile Post 1504.6 ~ June 16

Tom Leonard Lean-to ~ A steady drizzle greeted me this morning. The thought

of dry socks and boots was a fantasy that has long been given up. The trail

was more of a stream, at some points, reaching up my calf. Crossing Sage's

Ravine was a river ford. I was admiring the beauty of the ravine, while at

the same time hoping I would not get taken away by the current. The descent

down Mt. Everett was an ordeal, the mountain had streams going down the

face, the trail was a slippery scramble for the descent. A delightful day on

the Appalachian Trail. But the sun did come out, salvation was in sight! But

the trail was still unbelievably flooded. The trail near the Housatonic

River was a swamp. I am not ashamed to say I turned around and did a road

walk. The water came up to my waist, and the blazes weren't to be found.

Call it my version of a high water route. Talking to another thru-hiker

tonight, he said he swam the trail, and that the water came over his head!

Always an adventure on the Appalachian Trail or the AS - the Appalachian

Stream.-Paul

Mile Post 1525.7 ~ Upper Goose Pond Cabin

June 17 ~ Massachusetts is such a nice state to hike in. Dark pine forests,

tall birch trees, little streams and several ponds. And cows with a taste

for salt. Walking through a pasture near Tyringham, I was chased by four

cows! These cows must have seen my sweaty pack, shirt and bandana and

thought "Walking salt pile!" At one point these cows were actually running

at me, and were within two feet of me when I finally reached the stile.

People wondered about bears attacking me, who would have thought I would be

chased by cows with a hankering for salt. This cabin is a sweet place. The

porch overlooks the pond - a perfect place to drink some tea on this drizzly

night.-Paul

Mile Post 1546.2 ~ Dalton, MA

June 18 ~ An unusual sense of "deja vu" hit me when I crossed the foot

bridge over the Massachusetts Turnpike. Driving under this bridge always

meant Mt. Greylock was not too far away, now I walked over it. An odd

feeling. Tomorrow I will be at Greylock, but this time there will be no car

parked at the trailhead, no short drive home for a hot shower and work the

following Monday. Hiking on the part of the AT I am familiar with has a

different feel on a long distance hike. The same portion of the trail was a

way to blow off steam during weekends, now it is one part of a long journey.

Wonder what the trail will feel like to me after this journey is over?-Paul

Mile Post 1563.1 ~ Mt. Greylock, Bascom Lodge

June 19 ~ I can't believe the view from the summit. Three hundred and sixty

degrees of pure scenery. Amazingly enough, this is the first time I have

been on the summit when it has not been fogged in. Simply incredible what I

am seeing, the sunset should be spectacular. An incredible stroke of good

luck happened today. The centennial of the Greylock reservation was being

celebrated, so the state of Massachusetts let me stay at the lodge for the

bubble. Not a bad deal - shower, bunk, and two meals, all for being at the

right place at the right time.-Paul

Mile Post 1576.5 ~ Seth Warner Shelter

June 20 ~ What a way to start the day, seeing the tops of the mountain peaks

jut above the clouds, then having a hearty breakfast. Life should always be

this good. Last summer, I was on this portion of the trail, excited to be

doing my first long distance hike. Now instead of the Mass/Vermont line

being the beginning of a journey, it is towards the end of one. Quite a few

"Long Trailers" are here tonight. They are excited to begin their journey,

and I am anticipating the end of mine, but not with excitement, but a sense

of realization that the great experience that this thru-hike is, will

finish. Mixed emotions at that thought.-Paul

Mile Post 1598.1 ~ Goddard Shelter

June 21 ~ Warm weather and the recent rain add up to one thing: swarms of

insects! Egads, the mosquitoes thought it was happy hour on my arm. The bug

repellent kept them at bay, but they still swarmed around my head while

flies tried to imbed themselves in my hair. Luckily my handy, dandy bandana

kept them out. If I thought the insects were bad while hiking, they were by

far worse at the shelter area. Five minutes of sitting in the shelter

convinced me to tent it. The no-see-ums were unbelievably horrid. Cooking

dinner was interesting, I think there was some extra protein in my meal

tonight. The three pounds my tent weighs was worth it. The flies and

no-see-ums are all over the mesh of my tent. If that mesh were not there,

they would be on me! Now I can get a good nights sleep and dream about

swimming at Stratton Pond tomorrow evening.-Paul

Mile Post 1617.6 ~ Vondell Shelter

June 22 ~ Today was an excellent day for one big reason: Stratton Pond!

Taking a dip in a cool pond is just the cure for a muggy June day. Eating

dinner while looking out at the pond was also a relaxing way to unwind. The

shelter was full, but the tent came in handy again tonight. At five o'clock,

two women came by without a tent, or even a tarp. Since the shelter was

full, they had no choice but to push on to the next shelter, five miles up

the trail. There is a lesson in this incident. Sleep should come easy again

tonight. A gentle rain is tapping. After a day of hiking, a little swimming,

and dinner by the water, the sound of rain will be the fitting end to a good

day on the AT.-Paul

Mile Post 1637.8 ~ Peru Peak Shelter

June 23 ~ Spruce Peak Shelter is a classy place. An enclosed cabin, with

bunks and a wood stove, and a porch with chairs that are very inviting. A

little too inviting, I spent two hours sitting there and having a little

"RnR". Funny how fast time goes by when you are just doing nothing but

relaxing. The terrain is getting more difficult. I had forgotten what it is

like to climb up steep grades, then going down the other side of thye

mountain that is also steep. The knees are the best reminder of how the

terrain is more difficult!-Paul

Mile Post 1652.5 ~ Greenwall Shelter

June 24 ~ A problem at this point in the trail is that I am now in excellent

shape. Physically I can do day after day of big miles and/or little days.

That is a problem because the mental aspect of hiking goes by the wayside.

The mind has to decompress, unwind a bit. All these days of getting into

camp late does not let the mind do that. I was starting to fall into a trap

that many of us thru-hikers fall into. Mileage is everything. Down in New

Jersey, it is easy to do big days. But now it is more difficult, and day

after day of doing that is not enjoyable. I had to remind myself of why I am

out here. So when the shelter was spotted at 3:30, a decision was made! Take

a few days and relax. A few big days now and then does not hurt, but do it

consistently, and the trail becomes a task. That is something that I

definitely do not want. Knowing that the next few days will be light already

has a calming effect. Time to kick back a little, I guess.-Paul

Mile Post 1667.2 ~ Governor Clement Shelter

June 25 ~ Another hot and hazy day that makes seeing the sights fairly

difficult. But there was a restaurant ten minutes off the trail that made

for an excellent late breakfast. Sometimes it is hard to resist the call of

these places. A good meal is a difficult thing to pass up. What was nice

about the trail today was passing through this dark grove of pines. It felt

like something out of a German folktale. Almost expected Hansel and Gretel

to be prancing down the trail looking for their breadcrumbs. Also had a

great rest at a brook. The sound of water over rocks has a mesmerizing

affect. Soaking your feet in the water while soaking up some sunshine is

certainly one of the finer things in life. Tomorrow it is a short walk to

the Inn at Long Trail. Guiness on tap is a large incentive to make the miles

fly by. Haven't had a pint of good beer for longer than I care to think

about. There are just some luxuries that are difficult to do without. And a

good beer on tap is one of them.-Paul

Mile Post 1676.6 ~ Inn at Long Trail

June 26 ~ Nasty downpours at night again made the trail a small stream. No

matter, I could hear the sound of a Guinness being poured. Let it rain, let

it hail, let the mosquitoes bite - having a beer of the highest caliber

waiting for me makes any climb or weather seem like minor obstacles. It is

easy to like this place. It is almost as if someone took a piece of Dublin

and put it in Vermont. Having a bowl of stew while drinking a Half and Half

[no Bass here, it is a British beer, a definite no-go in an Irish PubI was

informed], with Van Morrison and John Lee Hooker covering "Gloria" for

background music, made this thru-hiker happy. Any place that lets my Guiness

settle for five minutes is definitely high caliber. Yup, a very relaxing day

here in Vermont. Tomorrow I will come to the Maine junction, and will then

shortly be in New Hampshire. The most rugged, but most scenic terrain

awaits. Katahdin seems to be rapidly approaching.-Paul

Mile Post 1694.1 ~ Winturn Shelter

June 27 ~ New England weather is infamous for changing quickly. Today there

was a constant battle between rain showers and sunlight. One minute I would

be in the middle of a steady drizzle, the next - the woods was covered with

rays of sun. Weird region, but it's home. The mugginess of the past few days

has broken. The days are temperate and the nights are cool. My favorite type

of weather. Cool nights keep the insects away and makes the sleeping bag

feel like a Sealy mattress. Tonight, some of the people in the shelter built

a campfire. Not only does a fire take the chill out of the air, but it is

relaxing to watch. Something about the flames licking at the logs and seeing

the orange glow of the coals, while listening to the crackling of the wood

makes for a mellow finish to a relaxing day of hiking.-Paul

Mile Post 1706.2 ~ Thistle Hill Shelter

June 28 ~ What a fantastic day! Clear blue skies, cool temperatures, great

scenery at the tops of hills, and fields of blackberries in season. Another

day meant to savor by going slow. The initial plan to push on another eight

miles to the Happy Hill Shelter went out the window when I saw how great the

day was. No need to push myself on such a gorgeous day. All the lollygagging

paid off, as well. A section hiking couple, who live not too far from

Hanover, offered to slack pack me for two days. So from Hanover until about

ten miles before Glencliff, I get to hike with a fanny pack and a water

bottle. Not too shabby. They are also letting me stay at their home for two

days. Talk about trail magic par excellence. Taking it easy has its

benefits. The trail magic was just gravy. Being able to savor a sunny June

day in Vermont was what really made it worthwhile-Paul

Mile Post 1720.6 ~ Hanover, NH

June 29 ~ Had two events that really put things into perspective today.

First, I met a Maine to Georgia thru-hiker. Then I crossed over into New

Hampshire. Meeting a southbounder and crossing into my second to last state

really makes Maine feel so close. A feature of this trail that continues to

astonish me is the comraderie. This is only my third day hiking with the

same group of section hikers, and we have already made plans where to eat

dinner, where we are staying the night, etc. The bond among hikers is a

strong one. Shared experiences create instant friendships with people of

varied backgrounds. I am so accustomed to saying hello to everyone on the

trail, that I greet everyone in town. I forget that it is odd for strangers

to be friendly to one another in "civilization". The casual and friendly

lifestyle of a thru-hiker will be missed long after the last white blaze has

been passed on Katahdin.-Paul

Mile Post 1738.6 ~ West Fairlee, VT

June 30 ~ There is trail magic, then there are trail miracles. Four of us

were met in Hanover by the couple we met the other day. Then my eighteen

miles of slackpacking began. Would not want to hike this way all the time,

but it was a nice change of pace. The kindness of strangers never ceases to

amaze me on this trip. Opening up their home for two days was an act of

kindness that will not be forgotten. I will have many thank you cards to

write when this hike is over.-Paul

Mile Post 1754.6 ~ West Fairlee, VT

July 1 ~ Very rainy, but it doesn't seem to matter as much when all I carry

is five pounds of gear. It is my last day of slackpacking and I must say I

enjoyed it. Three nights of taking a shower felt very decadent! We all went

into a nearby town for dinner. One thing I noticed in this town is

homogenous of a country this is becoming. A McDonald's and a WalMart on

every corner. Doing this trail I was able to see the pockets of

individuality that still exists in this country. The trail goes by small

towns and areas that hopefully will not see Golden Arches. A nice change

from the usual way things are done. Sometimes it is a good thing not to be

within five minutes of a Big Mac at all times.-Paul

Mile Post 1764.9 ~ Jeffers Brook Shelter

July 2 ~ Fantastic weather today, dare I hope for good weather for the next

few days? I am very excited that I hit my first above tree-line mountain

[for this hike] tomorrow. That is what backpacking is to me: step climbs

that seem to go forever, then a reward at the top. The feeling of seeing for

miles and miles is incredible. The Whites have always been my playground, it

is good to be back in them. I am getting quite used to these low mileage

days. Something about taking leisurely breaks, and still getting into camp

early has a nice feel to it. Some of my favorite places to backpack are

coming up. I plan on enjoying it.-Paul

Mile Post 1771.8 ~ Beaver Brook Shelter

July 3 ~ Incredibly fantastic weather today for my entrance to the White

Mountains. On top of Moosilauke, the mountains I am about to climb for the

next few days were in front of me. I could see the Kinsmans; a fantastic

view of the Franconia Ridge; and looming in the distance, towering above all

the other mountains, Mount Washington. I even saw Mt. Mansfield and Camel's

Hump in Northern Vermont. What an incredible sight to see. All told, I spent

five hours at the summit. Well worth every minute spent up there. There has

been some great things to see on the trail, but the Whites will always be a

favorite place of mine to backpack. And what do I see tonight from the

shelter? The full sprawl of the Franconia Ridge. Now that is a great thing

to watch while eating dinner.-Paul

Mile Post 1784.9 ~ Kinsman Pond Campsite

July 4 ~ Spending Independence Day in the Whites was a better experience

than I expected. I have been dreading the crowds that are infamous on this

part of the trail. The only people I saw hiking today were five

southbounders on their way to Springer. Apparently all the activity is on

the other side of the highway that runs between the Franconia Notch area. I

was able to enjoy the summit of Kinsman in solitude. Another fine view of

the ridge I will be hiking tomorrow. At the shelter tonight, there are

onlytwo of us. Rare enough on the other parts of the trail, never mind on a

holiday weekend in the White Mountains. Surprises seem to happen all the

time on the AT.-Paul

Mile Post 1796.0 ~ Greenleaf Hut

July 5 ~ I must admit I am an above the tree-line hiking junkie. Even though

it was foggy, the thrill of hiking on bare rock with twenty plus mile per

hour winds whipping around gets the ole adrenalin pumping. And a funny thing

happened on top of Laffayette. I was hiking along when I bumped into the

crew chief of the hut. She said she never gets thru-hikers down at the hut,

and it would be great if I stayed the night. Even though it was a mile off

the trail, I thought "why not"? So now I get to play "show and tell" to the

hut guests as part of my work for stay. The crew is extremely friendly and

treated me as one of the gang. And to make the day even better, the storm

moved out, and a clear sky shows the ridge in all its splendor. Tomorrow

will be full of great photo-ops. Funny how things work out for the best on

this trail. One moment, it is raining and foggy with four miles to go to a

shelter, the next - I am eating fresh baked bread and seeing the Franconia

Ridge against a vibrant blue backdrop of sky. This will be a lifestyle that

will be difficult to end.-Paul

Mile Post 1802.7 ~ Galehead Hut

July 6 ~ Another unexpected stop today. The crew of the Greenleaf suggested

I stop here, and I bumped into the crew of Galehead on Mt. Garfield. So I

received another invite to stay at a hut. Cool. The crews of these huts are

definately laid back. Very easy to get along with them. Spent an hour on

Garfield soaking up the scenery. The sun was warm, the display outstanding.

Feeling pretty content today. The strombolis for dinner certainly help as

well.-Paul

Mile Post 1814.4 ~ Ethan Pond Campsite

July 7 ~ There are several great things about the Appalachian Trail. One of

the things good about it are the diversity of the people using it. From

Snickers crazed long distance hikers to people out for the day. The people I

have met in the past few days have been interesting. Talked to a group of

Canadians who are hiking hut to hut, seen a grandfather out with his

grandson for a few days, and many other people. Being a thru-hiker, I am

asked all kinds of questions. But I just tell them that we are all doing the

same thing, I am just out a bit longer.-Paul

Mile Post 1823.8 ~ Mizpah Hut

July 8 ~ I am getting lazier as this hike goes on! One of the advantages of

being one of the first northbounders is that I can stay in a hut very

easily. There were very black clouds on the horizon, and the closest shelter

was five miles, up hill, above treeline. Another "work for stay" seemed very

inviting. Turns out that it was a good decision. "The Dungeon" at the Lakes

of the Clouds Hut already had seven reservations, and the hut itself was

filled to capacity. So, another early day. I was able to read, and get hot

soup and bread for a late lunch. If this goes on, I am going to forget how

to cook my own dinners. These huts definately spoil the thru-hikers. The

crews at these huts really go out of their way to make the thru-hikers

comfortable. Seems like being on the trail is one of the few places where

being on the lazy side has its rewards.-Paul

Mile Post 1838.4 ~ Osgood Tentsite

July 9 ~ Walking the Presidentials on a July day full of sunshine is a

pleasure that every hiker should experience at least once in their life.

Mile after mile being above treeline, seeing the peaks thrusting out towards

the sky. Simply amazing. The kind of experience that makes the jaw drop for

the whole day. Heck, even being on the zoo that is called Mt. Washington was

nice on a day like this. Getting off the ridge was another story however.

Dropping from over 4000 feet to 2500 feet in the space of less than three

miles was no fun. The trail was almost at a 90 degree angle in some cases.

Made for some slow hiking. When I finally did pull into camp, I met three

southbounders, a few people out for a week or so and a couple I have been

hiking on and off with who are section hiking to Maine. We all sat on a tent

platform, and the more musically inclined strummed their backpacking guitars

and sang some songs. Not a bad way to end the day.-Paul

Mile Post 1848.9 ~ Carter Notch Hut

July 10 ~ Every morning I pack up my gear before eating breakfast. Just a

habit developed over four months of hiking. So naturally the rain came down

in sheets as soon as my tent was packed up. Keep in mind, five minutes

earlier it was bright and sunny. Weather in the White Mountains changes

quickly, especially when a man is trying to eat his Pop Tarts! The terrain

of the past few days has been having an effect on me. Sometimes the terrain

is so steep that I have to pull myself up quite a few times. My arms and

chest have not been used much in the past few months, the sore feeling and

the stiffness in them quickly reminded me how rugged the White Mountains

are. Short day is my reward for the rugged hiking of the past few days. This

self serve hut is a nice place to cook some dinner and read a book. Though,

after the climb over Wildcat, I think it will be an early night in the

sack.-Paul

Mile Post 1863.7 ~ Gorham, NH

July 11 ~ Fog on the ridge, sun in the vallies. Blue skies showing, still

raining. Welcome to the White Mountains. The weather is consistent in its

inconsistency. The climbs are steep, the descents jarring on the knees. But,

I enjoy every moment of this. Seems I am thriving on the challenge. The

freedom found on this trail makes even a less than optimum day enjoyable.

This varying weather has a positive effect. A rainbow can be seen from the

hostel here in Gorham. Fantastic looking. Instead of a pot of gold, I would

like to think Katahdin is at the end of the rainbow. Less than three hundred

miles to the end of my journey. Still not sure what to expect at the end of

this little walk.-Paul

Mile Post 1875.6 ~ Gentian Pond Campsite

July 12 ~ Had a little preview for Maine in the form of three ponds on the

trail. Relaxing just to sit on the rocks and gaze at the water. A constant

on this trail is that my pack feels about right just before I pick up a

maildrop. After a maildrop, the pack feels like I put lead in it. Gives me

an excuse to take long breaks at ponds. So it is not necessarily a bad

thing. Tomorrow morning I will cross into Maine. State 14 of 14. The End.

Final Jeopardy. No thoughts on that subject except "WOW".-Paul

Mile Post 1885.2 ~ Full Goose Shelter

July 13 ~ Short, ten mile day. Ha! The constant steep climbs and steep

descents wore me out. The mileage might have been low on paper, but the

soreness in my legs, shoulders and back say otherwise. Throw in a very full

pack due to a recent maildrop and a fun filled day is had by this Georgia to

Maine hiker. In between my moaning and groaning, I actually had a good day.

Baked in the sun on Mt. Success for two hours, and crossed into Maine. Hard

to believe, but it's true. The whole moment had much symbolism. I slipped

just before the sign, and was by myself at the stateline. So I had the

solitude I enjoy and a fall because of the big klutz I am. Tonight at the

lean-to is quite weird. There are 13 Southbounders here tonight. I have not

seen this many Northbounders on the trail at one time! Odd to see this many

thru-hikers at one time. The contrast between myself and the Southbounders

are interesting. They are excited to enter their second state, and here I am

less than three hundred miles to Katahdin. An end for me, a beginning for

the rest.-Paul

Mile Post 1890.3 ~ Speck Pond Campsite

July 14 ~ The Mahoosuc Notch was fun today. Leaping over boulders,

scrambling over the rocks and seeing ice patches in the middle of July was

quite the exhilerating experience. Took me an hour and a half to do this

mile, so it was a bit on the rugged side. But, it was fun. The climb up the

Mahoosuc Arm was steep, but the reward was sweet. Another leisurely break on

a gorgeous mountain top. The day just kept on getting better. I was enjoying

myself too much to push on today. The pond was inviting to swim in. I bumped

into the caretaker, and she said I could use her inner tube in the pond.

Yahoo! So I had a great swim and then read my book while floating in the

middle of a pond. Talk about the high life! And to end this fantastic day,

four of us had a pot luck dinner at the caretaker's tent, complete with

fresh baked brownies. Life is good. Can't wait to see what happens

next.-Paul

Mile Post 1897.3 ~ Baldplate Lean-to

July 15 ~ The easy day mode is definitely switched on in me. Just felt like

getting into camp early and polishing off my book. It was a humid day, so I

think it was a good choice. Plus I was able to reduce my pack weight. Taking

it easy and reducing my pack weight. Great combination.-Paul

Mile Post 1915.4 ~ Andover, ME

July 16 & 17 ~ Funny how I came to this town. I was hot, sweaty, and

definitely not enjoying the day. Just sitting still made buckets of sweat

come off me. Then I bumped into Camel, who mentioned Pine Ellis B&B

slackpacks. Ah! I see a couple of easy days. We hitched into Andover and

checked into Pine Ellis. Well worth the unexpected side trip. I was able to

slackpack ten miles on an even hotter day and two relaxing days at one of

the friendliest, most accommodating places on the trail. Another two days of

living the high life!-Paul

Mile Post 1928.5 ~ Campsite

July 18 ~ A late start and some fairly rugged terrain made for a late

arrival at the road entering Oquossoc. Waited for nearly an hour for a hitch

that never came. So, I decided to camp not too far from the road and head

into town by another road the next day. I am glad I was not able to get the

hitch. The display in front of me was one of the best sun sets I have seen

in my life. Mooselookguntic Lake was a fiery red, with the mountains having

a pink tinge to them. Looked like something out of a Kodak commercial. One

question ran through my mind though. Is it Maine law that a certain

percentage of place names must have three syllables and be unpronouncable?

Just wondering.-Paul

Mile Post 1941.5 ~ Oquossoc,ME

July 19 ~ Maine is full of ponds! Seems like every three or four miles there

are great places to swim and to pitch a tent. One campsite even had canoes

available for use. If I was not headed into town for a resupply, it would

have been tempting to spend the day at this site. MATC even had some cut

logs available here for use as seats. Now that is the lap of luxury for

camping. Three out of four days in town is unusual for me, to say the least.

Seems like I want to splurge on the luxuries a bit now that the trip is

almost over. Glad I saved some money up before I left. At this point in the

trail many are worried about running out of money. That is one extra burden

I'm glad I don't have.-Paul

Mile Post 1952.2 ~ Poplar Ridge Lean-to

July 20 ~ Saddleback Mountain was interesting today. At the summit, in the

space of five minutes, the weather went from overcast to foggy to drizzle to

hail to sleet! Mark Twain once said, if you don't like the weather in New

England wait a few minutes and it will change! I did not take that statement

literally until today. I had many falls and bumps today. The slippery rocks

definitely gave me a few scares. One fall in particular had me wondering how

the heck was I going to get out of this without doing some major damage. In

retrospect it seems kind of comical. Yelling for ten seconds while sliding

on rocks. The only damage was a few bruises on my leg and arm. Call it trail

magic. Or just plain luck. Five months on the trail has worn me down

physically. I am in excellent spirits, but it is obvious that my body will

need some down time after this trip. I get the "hikers walk" in the morning

until I move for a little while. For those who have never seen this walk, it

is a walk where the knees hardly bend and the person is walking very

stiffly. My knees also get the Rice Crispy affect sometimes. I'll stretch

them out and they'll go "snap, crackle, pop"! Finally, there is my weight

loss. My upper body looks like Pee-Wee Herman! I weighed myself this morning

in town, bit of a shock. While I was twenty pounds or so overweight when I

began this trip, I did not think the weight loss would be as great as it

would be. Mentally and emotionally, I am doing great. I still look forward

to hiking everyday. But five months of hiking has an effect on the body. I

always joked that I was going to be a beach bum for a month or so after the

hike is over. It is no longer a joke, seems like a definate plan. Get to

trade in my Polypro for cotton. That will be different.-Paul

Mile Post 1960.3 ~ Spaulding Mountain Lean-to

July 21 ~ Decided to do a low mileage day, eat up some of my food to lighten

my pack a bit and then do some big mile days into Monson. The terrain

supposedly gets easier after tomorrow, so these past few days of short

mileage has left me geared up to pick up the pace a bit. I am well rested,

and my pack is lighter. So the higher mileage is doable. Meeting

Southbounders is always interesting for me. Not only do we swap information

on the upcoming terrain, but it is good to hear different perspectives.

Their enthusiasm gets me eagerly anticipating the next day, and I think the

fact that they get to meet someone who has hiked almost two thousand miles

encourages them. The only downside to meeting Southbounders is that they are

great people to meet and to be with. But then the next day comes, and we

don't see each other again. It is a great community on the trail, it is too

bad I do not get to know some of the members of our community better.-Paul

Mile Post 1981.6 ~ Avery Memorial Campsite

July 22 ~ I peaked out of my tent this morning and saw gray clouds and some

fog. Great - get to do another spectacular range in the fog and drizzle. But

by noon the fog burned off and had a fun day climbing up a steep trail that

had a fine view. I like to be rewarded for my hard work. And I was. Today

was the kind of day that left me pleasantly tired. Feeling like this lets me

know I had a full day, without feeling too exhausted. The past few days of

rest really helped make the day go by easy. Instead of crawling into camp

with only minutes of daylight left, I was able to get here by six and have

enough energy to cook a meal and time to unwind a bit. I find it odd how a

short day, then a long day can actually be easier on the body than two

medium sized days. Seems to work for me. If all goes well, the two thousand

mile mark will be hit tomorrow. Still amazes me how far I have come.

Springer Mountain seems like a lifetime ago. In a way, it is. I do not think

I am quite the same person of two thousand miles back. This trail is more

than just a journey from Springer to Katahdin. It has been a journey of

memories and experiences that will stay with me and affect me long after the

photo at Baxter Park is taken. Cliche though it may be, I may leave the

trail, but I don't think the trail will ever leave me.-Paul

Mile Post 2003.8 ~ North Branch,Carrying Place Stream

July 23 ~ The best time to be on a mountain peak is early in the morning.

For some reason it is tranquil on the summit at this time of day. The whole

setting puts the mind at ease, getting a good frame of mind for the rest of

the day. Almost made the push to Pierce Pond Lean-to tonight. But I hate

getting into camp late. Though I will miss a pancake breakfast at

Harrison's, I would not enjoy it very much if I was exhausted. I am an early

riser, so there should be no problem making the ferry across the Kennebec

River. Had my worse accident yet on the trail. The on and off rain of today

made for a very muddy and slippery walk. Needless to say, I slipped. Falling

down, my right arm sunk into the mud and was cut on a rock in the mud. Kind

of like a nastier version of a Cracker Jacks prize. I looked at my arm and

noticed a nasty gash. Great. Just what I needed, stitches. Once I cleaned it

out though, I noticed the bleeding had already stopped and the cut was more

superficial than it first looked. So I now have a four by four dressing on

my arm held in place with some snazzy looking duct tape (of course). Should

also have a nifty looking scar as a momento of my hiking in Maine.-Paul

Mile Post 2024.8 ~ Bald Mountain Brook Lean-to

July 24 ~ Crossing the Kennebec River was a big psychological boost. A major

milestone of the trail, and crossing that river really made me feel like I

was coming to the end of my journey. Celebrated this occasion with an early

power lunch of a litre of Mountain Dew and a pint of Ben and Jerry's. This

combination always seems to make the miles fly by. Tomorrow I will be in

Monson, my last trail town. My friend Tim and his girlfriend Nicole will be

meeting me there. Tim will be putting up with me for a week to hike the

Wilderness. Haven't seen any of my friends in five months, so tomorrow will

be a great day. Five months of dumb jokes, wise cracks, stories and general

news will have to be discussed in the coming week. I am curious to see if

Tim or Nicole notice any changes in me. (Besides the fact that I now look

like a cross between Grizzly Adams and a war refugee).-Paul

Mile Post 2046.9 ~ Monson, ME

July 25 ~ Walked into Monson with much anticipation. My last trail town, the

last push before Katahdin! As I approached Shaw's, I noticed a car with

Rhode Island license plates. My friends have arrived! Tim and Nicole could

not believe how different I looked from five months ago. Nicole kept on

saying "You are smaller than me"! (But at 5'6", I am smaller than most to

begin with,my weight loss really makes me look tiny!) They both thought my

beard was 'interesting'. After woofing down several plates of food, Tim and

I did much talking. Between my stories of the past five months, and his news

of what was going on at home, it was a late evening. It is almost 12:30AM as

I write this, well past a thru-hiker's bedtime! Tomorrow we will start our

hike of the Wilderness. The final stretch before the end of this journey. I

have hiked many miles and have had many memories on this hike. Hard to

believe in a weeks time, I will have no more white blazes to follow, no more

climbs to make. I look forward to being on Katahdin, but it will be hard to

end what has been the most satisfying five months of my life.-Paul

Mile Post 2059.9 ~ Campsite

July 26 ~ The first day in the Wilderness had a nice pace to it. Hiking with

Tim made the whole day feel like a weekend backpacking trip. But, as Tim

said, "Weekend trips do not last a whole week"! Well put. Had a major stream

crossing in the form of the Big Wilson. Actually had fun doing this

crossing. Something different from the daily routine of hiking. Finally came

to this spot around 5 o'clock. No reason to push to a shelter when there is

a nice camping spot. A grassy, abandoned logging road with a small stream

made for a good place to spend the night. Tomorrow we will face the most

difficult terrain in the Wilderness. Should be interesting.-Paul

Mile Post 2077.1 ~ Pleasent River

July 27 ~ The Barren-Chairback Range was indeed hard hiking. Many steep

climbs, but, oh, what a gorgeous day. Getting to the Barren Cliffs made

every ounce of sweat expended well worth it. Seeing all these lakes mixed in

with the lush green of the woods was like looking at a watercolor painting

come to life. Just had to have a break and soak up the sunshine and scenery.

Finally made it to another nice place to camp. Some Southbounders told us

about. Flat, not too far from the stream. After pitching the tent, took a

refreshing (polite way of saying "GAWD! THAT WAS COLD!") dip in the river,

and ate dinner. Another satisfying day on the AT.-Paul

Mile Post 2089.8 ~ Logan Brook Lean-to

July 28 ~ You would think two buddies who have not seen each other in five

months would have many meaningful things to talk about. Where we are headed

in life, what I have gained out of this trip, what means the most to us.

Nah. We are guys after all.(grin) And more importantly, we are guys who

hike. So we talked about what every hiker dreams about: FOOD! All we could

think of was food we crave. From steaks and burgers on the grill, to Big

Macs, to all you can eat Chinese food buffets, to my mother's homemade sauce

with meatballs and sausage, to Taco Bell, etc. etc. etc. You cannot

understand why food is such an important item for hikers until you have

experienced this small hole in the stomach that is never quite satisfied. No

matter how much I eat, I am hungry soon after. It is a black hole of

calories that exists in my stomach. We are excited about hitting Abol Bridge

in a couple of days for frozen, microwave food. The thought of frozen

cheeseburgers are actually making me excited. Food is energy, and you can

never get enough of it on the trail. But the discussing of food all day was

not the only thing we did. Believe it or not, we actually hiked a bit.

Getting to the summit of Whitecap Mountain was the best moment of the day.

Could actually see Katahdin in the distance. My first view of this mountain.

The end of my journey was in sight, only fifty miles away. The next fifty

are supposed to be the easiest part of the Wilderness. We shall see. Trail

rumors have a funny way of not exactly being 100% accurate.-Paul

Mile Post 2110.9 ~ Lower Jo-Mary Lake

July 29 ~ The trail has many pleasures to offer. From the broad sweep of

grassy fields on a bald in the South, to the majestic landscape of the

Grayson Highlands, to the rugged beauty of the White Mountains. But, I think

I enjoy these quiet, subtle moments, more. This campsite is by far the best I

have ever been in. A natural beach on the quiet shores of Jo-Mary Lake. The

wind is a slight breeze, and the sun is reflecting on the lake with a soft,

orange glow. I am writing this journal entry by the water, listening to the

gentle sounds of the waves lapping at the shore. A place that lends itself

to contemplation. This place and moment is best enjoyed in silence. Nature

is doing all the talking that needs to be done for tonight.-Paul

Mile Post 2134.4 ~ Rainbow Springs Campsite

July 30 ~ Funny how we ended up at this spot tonight. On the map, I saw a

place by an abandoned dam that looked promising for a campsite. Supposedly

had a trail leading to the spot. Well, I guess we passed it, or the side

trail was not very well marked. I kept on saying "We are almost there!" or

"I think the mud is slowing us down a bit, that must be why it is taking so

long to get there." Optimism is an easy trait to acquire when it is the end

of the day and you are tired and really, really, REALLY want the campsite to

show up. So I saw an approaching grass clearing on the trail and thought

"Ah, the heck with it, good a place as any to pitch a tent". Then I noticed

the sign that designated the camping spot. We had gone more than two miles

past where we originally wanted to tent! On the plus side, that much less

mileage to Daicey Pond tomorrow. Always an adventure on the AT. Especially

when you hike an extra two miles without meaning to. Nesuntabunt Mountain

was a hard climb with another rewarding view of Katahdin. Katahdin is so

close now, not quite sure what to make of it. Do not know what my reaction

will be when I make that last climb. Only one way to find out.-Paul

Mile Post 2134.4 ~ Daicey Field Lean-to g

July 31 ~ Amazing what the lure of ice cream, soda and cheeseburgers can do

to make a ten mile hike go by so fast. The five of us (Squanto, Blaze,

Camel, Tim and myself) bought much food at the campground store. The

convenience store quality food tasted like the finest banquet we have ever

had. By this point on the trail, all the thru-hikers are starving for

calories. Throw on the ice cream sandwiches! The more fat the better. Spent

a small fortune on junk food, but it was worth it. Seeing Katahdin from

Daicey Pond was an awe inspiring sight. Katahdin was so majestic looking,

dominating the horizon like no other mountain I have ever seen. So easy to

be mesmerized by this peak. I can see why the Abenaki called it "Greatest

Mountain". There was a subdued mood in camp tonight. The routine was the

same. Still had to filter water, cook dinner, clean out pots. But it was the

last time we would do this on the trail. Tomorrow will mark the end of our

focus for these past few months. The talk of this evening was still

lighthearted, but there was a subdued atmosphere just under the layer of a

typical night in camp. We were all affected by this trip, and I think all of

us thought about it in our own way. By coincidence, we all had the same last

meal. If there is ever an official meal for backpackers, it is mac n'cheese.

The fact that I still enjoy it after five months is a bit scary,

though!-Paul

Mile Post 2160.7 ~ Katahdin

Aug 1 ~ Woke up very early, even for me. By four-thirty, I was fully awake.

Could not wait to begin the final climb. Felt the same way when I was six or

seven years old on Christmas morning. I knew it was too early to get up, but

it was hard waiting for the right time. Finally, five o'clock rolled around.

The routine was the same, but today was different, I am climbing Katahdin!

Arrived at Katahdin Stream Campground with much excitement and anticipation.

Scanned the cars for some familiar faces. And I saw them. After five months,

many postcards, a few calls, I finally was able to see my friends and

youngest brother again. They all smiled when they saw me, but I think they

were not smiling when that oh-so-special hiker smell hit their noses! The

climb up Katahdin started up easy enough, I went at a slower pace so we

could all hike together, but when I hit the treeline, my pace really picked

up. Tim, my brother and Steve kept up with me - but Leo and Jim fell behind.

I did not even realize how fast I was hiking. When I saw I was on the Table

Lands and could see the Baxter Peak sign, I really picked up the pace. The

anticipation and excitement was too much. At maybe a quarter mile to the

summit, Tim asked me to wait here so he could take my picture as I approach

the summit. I reluctantly agreed. Very hard two minutes of waiting, let me

tell you. Finally, I pushed on again. When I reached the summit, and touched

the sign, I let out the loudest yell of my life. The emotions were that

intense. I had accomplished something that was theoretical five months ago,

and now it was real. Incredible feeling. Took the usual summit photos. My

friends packed up a feast. Cold cuts, bread, a bottle of Dom Perignon, and

they had a surprise in the form of 'sparkling wine' that they sprayed me

down with. (They later said I would smell better stinking of cheap wine!) On

my final hike, I packed in a full watermelon. Nothing like handing out

pieces of watermelon at 5267 feet. Long story behind this, have to explain

it sometime. My hike of the AT is over. No more white blazes to follow. The

AT will always be a part of me. I have seen sights that most people do not

see. I will remember the crunch of fresh snow under my boots, the way the

sun feels after many days of rain. The joy a cold soda can bring from a

complete stranger. The daily rhythm of hiking that seems to bring

tranquility. I have pushed myself physically, mentally, and emotionally

these past five months. It was not easy to do. But the rewards are many.

Horizons are now limitless, what can and cannot be done is redefined. The

Appalachian Trail was a special moment in my life. Never have five months

had so much meaning and purpose. These past five months I have learned more

about myself than I thought I could know. I now have a better idea of who

Paul Magnanti is. The memories and experiences of the trial will always be a

part of me. Climbing to Katahdin may have ended this journey, but in my

heart and thoughts, I will still be on the trail.-Paul